Winter Mountain Leader Training - Scotland

As the temperatures began to rise and the snow began to melt, I was busy packing my bags and heading north to the Cairngorms for my Winter Mountain Leader Training course.  Six days of snow packed fun with lots of learning, time in the hills and meeting new people. So much to look forward.

Staying at Ardenberg bunkhouse I quickly realised that I would be the only female in the group of 7 participants.  Luckily Lou was helping Pete out as the second instructor so I had some support!  The group was fantastic fun and soon the banter was flying around.

Despite the lack of snow, Pete always knew where to take us to find enough to learn and practice the skills required for the course.  Day 1 we spend a lot of time cutting snow steps and flying down steep slopes practicing self arrest.  (There is a great video of Matt The most important element of the course is gaining the skills to make a group safe in the hills and therefore being able to teach the basic skills in the mountains is essential.

The evening sessions, run by either Lou or Pete were all about top tips from the days - and there were plenty of them.  We also had lectures on a variety of topics.

Photo taken by Matt LeVoi @  http://www.lakelandmountainguides.co.uk/ 

Day 2 we found another patch of snow to work on crampon skills and made a wide variety of snow belays for emergency rope work.  The WML is only qualified to deploy the rope in emergency situations and we learnt a range of techniques for our tool boxes.  Testing the strength of the belays is an important element of the process and having created a reinforced buried axe belay, all seven of us put our weight on the rope.  The belay held firm clearly showing its strength.

Photo taken by Matt LeVoi @  http://www.lakelandmountainguides.co.uk/

Unfortunately my hands did not hold up to the test in such a spectacular way and with my thumb entangled in the rope I felt a sharp pain.  However, not one to give into pain I carried on with the rest of a thoroughly enjoyable day.

Day 3 we spent time talking about avalanche danger and then built an emergency snow shelter each.  Everyone's was slightly different but the variety, size and efficiency was a great discussion point. By early afternoon my right hand had swollen to twice the size and I supervised while the boys dug Reusch block tests.  Back in the car park Pete finally persuaded me to get my hand check out at the clinic in Aviemore.

Photo taken by Matt LeVoi @  http://www.lakelandmountainguides.co.uk/

And that was the end of my course.  With a complete rupture of the ulnar collateral my thumb now has the ability to bend right the way back - something I'm sure it is not supposed to do.  So a long drive back to Manchester, with a slight delay as I broke down outside Glasgow, and straight to the local A&E to get properly checked out.

I was so looking forward to building a snow shelter and sleeping in it, doing some night navigation, more avalanche work and generally spending more days in the winter hills with a fantastic group of people - but thank goodness for the NHS (despite their delays).  

I finally had surgery 10 days after the accident and am now on the mend.  Unfortunately the 12 week recommended recovery period means that I won’t be out much this winter - even more reason to look forward to Nepal in the spring.

WML training with http://www.petehillmic.com/

Thanks to Matt Le Voi at 

http://www.lakelandmountainguides.co.uk/ for use of the photos. 

Everest Base Camp Charity Trek with Children in Crossfire

Another fun trip to EBC with a slightly later departure than usual the trek went into December and the temperatures were dropping. However the Irish team with an optimism, enthusiasm and entertainment ability that I have never before seen in a group, were ready for anything.  Supporting the local charity 'children in crossfire' (www.childrenincrossfire.org/) the determination was high to achieve their objective.

After a few days in Kathmandu getting used to the country, we flew to Lukla and started making our way up hills and towards our goal of Everest Base Camp. As a highly caring and supportive group, everyone helped each other out and quickly became a close team.

A slow and steady acclimatisation profile had us arriving in Dingboche five days after we started walking.  Unfortunately at this point two of the group had to leave us.  Siobhan headed slowly back to Lukla with Lakpha and I took Al to Pheriche hospital. 

Al was suffering from a severe headache and lack of appetite.  Having spent an hour in a PAC bag at the tea house, the hospital did further tests and quickly evacuated him back to Kathmandu where it was confirmed he was showing the early signs of high altitude cerebral edema.  He rested and recovered in back in the city and was pleased to join up with the rest of the team on our return.

A tough two day walk the rest of the way to Base Camp took the remaining team members a huge amount of determination - but they all made it with smiles on their faces.  Nuala and Jim had to work particularly hard as they were fighting colds all the way.

 

Unfortunately, as we were descending, Nuala became weaker and slower.  Struggling to descend safely, a phone call to a local doctor in Kathmandu indicated that the safest course of action would be to evacuate Nuala and she was rapidly flown out of Lobuche that afternoon.  Luckily she quickly recovered on descent and following a few days of rest, was back to full strength.

The rest of the team still had a swift two and a half day walk back to Lukla.  the clear skies, beautiful views and draws of a shower and some meat made it far easier to walk down than up. 

And then the party - the Irish certainly know how to party.  With Gavin organising the refreshments, Diarmuid organising the Irish songs and everyone full of energy, Lukla didn’t know what had hit it.  A fantastic way to end an unforgettable trip to the mountains.

This trip outlines the importance of having a reliable and well organised in country agent and Dawa, with his in depth local knowledge and contact helped made sure everything ran smoothly (www.adventurethamserku.com/).

Leading for Global Adventure Challenges (www.globaladventurechallenges.com). 

Everest Base Camp and Island Peak

Waiting at the busy arrivals area of Kathmandu International airport with a Jagged Globe sign larger than my head, I peered around looking for the distinctive red kit bags that would identify my team when they finally made their way out in the heat of Nepal.  Finally I saw them, counting their arrival by the number of bulging red bags.  7, 8, 9, 10... Wait a minute, I'm sure I'm only looking for 9 bags - 9 clients.

 

We quickly establish that my entire team have made it safely to Kathmandu and the tenth arrival is Ron - who will be joining Adele on the Kyajo Ri Trip.  A short stay at the Summit hotel into which we pack in a trip briefing, introductions, kit check, medical updates, dinner and a very short sleep before pilling onto a wonderfully on-time flight to Lukla.

 

Suddenly we are surrounded by mountains, porters, yaks and big pots of lemon tea.  The culture shock is what we came here for, along with the breathtaking views and  thrill of a climb - the excitement is bubbling just under the surface.  The walk to Namche takes just two days and there are so many assaults on the sense and sights to take in along the way that the team are pleased they will have the opportunity to pass this way on the return journey to make the most of what they are missing first time around.

 

Our acclimatisation time in Namche is not wasted and during our trip to the Everest View hotel we are rewarded with a clear panorama stretching as far as the eye can see - enjoyed with tea and cake.  A very civilised way to break us into the mountain environment.  During our stay in Namche, Ant makes it clear to us that he has brought a very special gift with him.  I am the first to receive the gift but over the next two weeks it makes its way around the team and few were able to refuse the fresh head cold which he brought with him directly from the UK.

Another two days of trekking took us above the tree line to our next acclimatisation test at Dingboche.  A beautiful bustling village with Mamas bakery to abate James unquenchable appetite, an informative talk on altitude at the local Medical centre and a short but tough acclimatisation walk onto the ridge between Dinboche and Pheriche.

 

Feeling good at 4400m we slowly climb to Gorak Shep. With 3 days to ascend 800m we have plenty of time to enjoy the environment, views, food, company and make sure we arrive feeling as fresh as we can at 5200m.  Ant's gift is still being given and received around the team but it is Ant himself who is making the most of the cold he is sharing with us.  However, how can you not smile when you are living in a cold mountain environment surrounded by views that take away any breath you may be able to take at high altitude.

 

Finally we are here, we trek slowly to Base Camp where one remaining Japanese team are preparing a final assault of the season on Everest.  The walk in along the glacier does not contain much up - just 150m - but it is Nepali flat all the way and the terrain is tough going.  However, the team arrives with smiles on the faces: for some this has been a dream for many years.  Congratulations to everyone in the team for making it to Everest Base Camp.

 

The next morning we make an early start in the cold air to climb Kala Pattar.  About half way up the path becomes less steep and we stop to breath and admire the first views of Everest that we have seen for a few days. As the route steepens again, the pace slows and the summit becomes nearer. A short scramble at high altitude brings the team to a small area covered in prayer flags.  Layers of clothing, hats and gloves are pulled out of bags as the wind cuts through the air, cameras follow shortly after and smiles are clear on every face that is admiring the view.  Well done to Pete, James, Olly, Mark, Ant, Colin and Jane for reaching the summit.

 

 

Objectives in this area complete the team splits in two with some making their way via Pheriche around the valley floor to Chekkung and James, Olly, Mark, Colin and Jane battle over the Kongma La.  The steep scree slopes and the altitude make the going tough but arriving at the top of the pass brings different views and much rejoicing. The descent to Chekkung is long, gentle and beautiful and Jane achieved things she never thought possible.  Well done Jane!

 

Arriving in Chekkung at the top of the Imje Valley, the whole team met up again briefly.  Here we would leave Jane who has achieved everything she set out to do, and who will wait for us to return from the mountain in the relative comfort of a local Lodge. The next morning we make our way to Base Camp, a secluded camp site well before the main Base Camp of Island Peak and with no one else in sight.  The team really feels like they are going to climb a mountain now and the anticipation creeps up.

 

The next morning we sadly say goodbye to Alan and Mary-Kate and make our way to High Camp.  This is a cold windy campsite at 5600m and the team are pleased to be ale to retreat into their tents early to make final ascent preparations and be brought soup and high energy food which will help power them up the mountain.

In the middle of the night a cup of steaming bed tea, followed by breakfast is brought to the tents.  Slowly the team emerge dressed in summit clothing, helmets and double boots with ice axes, crampons and harnesses stowed away in backpacks.  Water and packed lunches are added to the supplies and the group turn towards the summit.  A slow dark scramble takes the team to crampon point and then further to the fixed ropes.

 

As ascenders scrape up the ropes and ice axes pound into the ice the slow ascent continues in the first light of dawn.  Edging along the summit ridge, passing a large Korean group along the way, brief summit photos and whoops of joy escape the summiting team members before the long ascent back to High Camp. Congratulations to James, Mark, Olly, Colin and Ant to reaching the summit.

 

A final night was spent in High Camp to regain strength before meeting Jane back in Chekkung the next day and slowly making our way back to Namche and finally Lukla via Phakding. A sad farewell party and some Sherpa dancing mark the end of the trip to the mountains. The next morning took the team back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu for some final shopping in Thamal, visits of the local sights and farewell dinners.

 

Congratulations to everyone in the team for an excellent trip, achieving your goals and pushing yourselves to new horizons.

 

Leading for Jagged Globe

www.jagged-globe.co.uk

 

 

Everest Region, Nepal - Gokyo / Parchermo

I arrived in Kathmandu exhausted after 2 night flights and a 12 hour layover at London Heathrow. With just a few hours to meet up with Tom, make final preparations and fit in a few hours sleep before flying to Lukla the next morning I had my work cut out for me.  Tom had been lucky enough to spend a few days in kathmandu acclimatising and getting over his jet lag after a long flight from New Zealand. Happily we landed in Lukla in one piece and made our way slowly up to Namche then looked towards the Gokyo Valley.



When we were in Namche we heard about the terrible crash of a Sita plane. The plane was his by a large bird just outside Kathmandu and crashed trying to return to the airport.  Everyone aboard the plane died. It was quite a shock especially as we were on that plane just 48 hours earlier. It brings home the danger of some of your actions.  As we were in Namche we were able to reassure the many friends and family members who contacted us to check we were ok.  Thank you to everyone for caring and our thoughts are with the families of those involved in the crash.  (For more info: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/seven-britons-confirmed-dead-in-kathmandu-plane-crash)

As Tom and I left the world of easy communication and the hustle and bustle of the EBC trail we turned our thoughts towards Gokyo. As Tom had never been to altitude before I was cautious about our speed of ascent especially as he struggled slightly between Lukla and Namche.  However, true to form Tom became stronger and stronger with every 100 metre of ascent until I was the one struggling to keep step with him.

I on the other hand replicatd my previous trip up the valley.  Last time I was heading towards Machermo, having walked in from Jiri and was feeling strong until I got to Dole.  For the next week I was inflicted with a very upset stomach and only just managed to crawl into the Machermo Rescue Post to get medical attention.  This time a respiratory tract infection hit me in Namche (I beleive it was picked up from a client on my previous Kilimanjaro trip).  By the time we reached Machermo I was unable to talk - luckily the doctor there checked me out and prescribed the right medication for me.

We continued on to the beautiful settlement of Gokyo and while I took a rest day and nursed my aching throat and lungs Tom made his way up Gokyo Ri for some fantastic views of the region.  The next day we headed over the Renjo La - the pass that provides the best views in the area  thanks to its distance from Everest.  We made it to Thame that afternoon which is a long day but well worth the effort.

In Thame we met our camp crew who were to head up the valley towards the Thashi Lapsa with us.  The lack of tea houses up the valley meant a camp crew was indispensable in our attempt to climb Parchermo Peak. We were very well treated by the crew with the usual camping luxuries of tea in bed, hot washing water and a whole array of different foods served up as often as we could possibly desire.

After a night at Thyongbo we headed up to camp at Ngole. Due to rockfall and a landslide we were unable to camp at the expected 5100m and camped 300m lower leaving a longer day to come.  Up to this point we had the luxury of a train of Dzo (hybrid Yak/Cattle) to carry our climbing and camping equipment but they could not negotiate the steep scree slopes of the mountain and from here we carried our own kit - with the help of a few porters.

On reaching 5100m we came to a steep icy section which the porters were not happy about crossing.  With the help of a rope this could be negotiated but Tom, Pemba and I decided to walk further up the mountain to assess the conditions higher up.  The camp site was on the pass and there were some very steep sections which the porters would find difficult and a lot of rockfall. All the factors were taken into consideration and it was decided that this mountain would not be climbed today.  We will come back and attempt it another time under differ circumstances, with helmets and in better conditions.








 The trip up the valley was not a waste as the remoteness of this area is so far removed from the busy Khumbu valley, we didn't see a single other westerner which we were up there and the views were breathtaking.






A rapid descent back to Lukla had us waiting to fly out within a couple of days. By some extraordinary turn of events the tea house we were staying in had a helicopter waiting to return to Kathmandu empty.  We were lucky enough to fill the empty seats at no additional cost and thus avoided another plane ride from Lukla airport whilst benefiting from fantastic views all the way.

A few days in Kathmandu and Tom will start making his way back to Christchurch, NZ while I turn my thoughts back to the Khumbu and another flight to Lukla.    

Tanzania - Kilimanjaro (Lemosho Glades)

An early start found me standing at Manchester airport at 4am waiting for Amber and Jess. They were easy to spot, not just thanks to their large red Jagged Globe bags, but also the fact they are identical twins. Identical rucksacks too, except that Amber's is blue and Jess' is green - although it took quite a while to work that out because Amber's hat is green and Jess' is blue. Luckily they both respond to either name and are very easy going about the numerous mistakes the team made throughout the week. 

The three of us made our way to Amsterdam where we met the rest of the team - except Juan who was already busy relaxing in Tanzania after flying out early from Costa Rica. A delay in the flights meant arriving in the middle of the night.  Luckily the excitement of the next day kept us alert and early on Saturday morning the entire team met for the first time to prepare for departure into the Kilimanjaro National Park.

A 3 hour drive had us arriving at the Landorossi Gate for lunch and a talk about altitude.  We eventually started making our way towards Big Tree Camp mid afternoon and the pleasant and gradual climb was an ideal start for an exhausted team of trekkers.  Everyone was going to have to eat and sleep hard in order to regain strength lost by two short nights sleep if we were to have an chance of enjoying ourselves on the mountain. 

Luckily an excellent in country crew provided a fantastic three course meal in a mess tent lit with shiny new black diamond lamps. That, combined with spacious tents and our own private toilet tent made all the difference in making everyone feel comfortable (especially Elaine who was over the moon to see the toilet tent). 

The next morning got even better as everyone was treated to a hot drink I'm bed - to serve as their wake up call - followed by warm washing water and a three course breakfast (porridge, cooked breakfast and fruit along with plenty of hot drinks). This set the team up perfectly for the days walking and the treatment remained as high quality throughout the entire trek. 

The walk across the Shira Plateau took two days with a side trip to Shira Cathedral offering breathtaking views onto the plains below and over to Mount Meru. The path, which started in the forest, first becomes a savannah of tall grasses eventually becoming meadow and then semi desert.  From Shira Camp 2 we can see Kibo Peak clearly for the first time and the reality of what the team have embarked on begins to dawn on them. 

With this new clarity of purpose, it is an excited group that prepares for the long walk to Barranco Camp via the Lava Tower. A long walk up followed by a descent that takes us into a camp so close to Kibo Peak that you can almost touch it. With the Barranco Wall looming down on us, Elaine prepared herself for her toughest day yet.  An incredibly determined woman with a fear of scrambling she clambered up the wall holding onto local guide Davis' hand all the way. 

By this time the team have begun entertaining themselves with various word games and inventions - generally on Johns initiative but with a lot of support from Michael.  Keep your eyes peeled for the forthcoming Stallion drink with specific medicinal properties which John assures us all will soon be on the market.  

With entertainment and moral taken care of by John, we arrive in high spirits at Karanga Camp from where the best views of Mount Meru can be seen. For lunch, we are treated to chicken and chips before resting at 4050m in preparation for the big day tomorrow. 

Finally with no headaches in sight and five days of trekking behind us we make our way to our final and highest camp before attempting to climb to the roof of Africa.  Barafu Camp is situated at 4650m and is a busy camp full of excited people preparing to climb and exhausted people returning from a long night out. 

We arrive for lunch with plenty of time to eat, rehydrate, pack, plan and prepare for our big summit departure. Final checks of summit outfits, removal of all un essential gear from rucksacks and as much sleep as can be obtained when at that altitude and excited about climbing one of the seven summits.

At midnight we quietly eat our porridge and drink as much as possible before walking out into the cold night air to begin the long ascent.  After a number of hours we say goodbye to Roger as he returns to camp.  A few hours after that the team stop for a hot drink.  Constantly checking on the team for cold, exhaustion and signs of AMS, everyone is doing well.  Juan is always "great" but finally, an hour before sunrise I receive the reply "I've downgraded from great to very good". Retaining a sense of humour when undertaking a mountain like this is a must!

Exhausted we arrive at Stella Point at 7:30am taking the time to eat, drink and rest for a short while before saying goodbye to Jess who makes her way back down.  The rest of the team reach Uhuru Peak at 9am with just enough time for a few photos and self congratulation before heading back to camp.

The views on the way down can be appreciated now and the form of Mawenzi Peak is seen clearly in the distance.  An hour of rest is much appreciated before trying to eat something and making our way down to Millenium Camp for a nights sleep at a lower altitude.

Finally, our last day on the mountain and our last in Tanzania.  We reach the Mweka Gate  by midday have lunch with our guides back at the hotel before indulging in a much deserved shower and heading to the airport.  Jess, Amber and Juan are lucky enough to be staying on for a few extra days of Safari - we are all jealous and can't wait to hear about it.

Congratulations to everyone for putting 100% into the trip. Everyone pushed themselves to the limit and should be proud of their achievements. A special congratulations to Elaine, Irene, Amber, Carl, John, Michael, Juan and Simon for reaching Uruhu Peak.

Well done everyone, a fantastic trip and a lot of fun. 

Leading for Jagged Globe

www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Summer IML Assessment, Switzerland

Aiglon College, Villars-sur-Ollon one of the most expensive boarding schools in Switzerland, educating students from all over the world. This was to be our base for the International Mountain Leader Summer Assessment.  












On the first  morning, meeting the other 10 candidates we were told which area we would be assessed in, sent out to buy maps and make sure our 'mini team' was prepaid with all emergency kit – groups shelter, rope, sling, karabiners, first aid kit, ice axe.


I was lucky enough to be put into an assessment team with Hannah and Sam.  We worked well together, complementing each other with our differing knowledge and experience base.  With each of us taking a different leg of the trip, being leader for that period, we were to navigate, enthuse, interest and entertain our team with our local and general knowledge.

Other tasks involved mini presentations, knowledge of emergency procedures, rope work, language skills, hut etiquette, altitude and general knowledge of leading trip throughout the world.

The three day trip took us through the mountains and over the magnificent Col des Chamois with its steep descent and great exposure.  The Cabane de Plan Névé was very welcoming and the display on the Swiss horn made it an unforgettable experience.  Our thoughts were with the warden who was retiring after spending his entire life running the hut.

The lead assessor, Simon made us feel relaxed and we even enjoyed some of the assessment.  With such a good team, it was unsurprising but a great relief that all three of us everyone passed with flying colours.  We are all looking forward to completing the final part of our IML qualification – the Winter Assessment – as soon as the snow comes.

Congratulations to everyone who passed their Summer IML.

Bring on the winter!

http://www.baiml.org/

Tour des Mouverans, Switzerland

Arriving at Geneva airport, I realised that the journey was only just beginning.  I met John off the plane and we quickly found a train to Aigle, journeying along the beautiful lakeside. A swift change onto a local bus taking us up to the mountain resort of Villars-sur-Ollon.  The next bus took us even further up to Solalex and the final 400 metre of ascent we walked arriving the Refuge Giacomi by the evening. It was a long day of travelling but the views and remote location we had arrived at, in just 12 hours, was well worth it.  What's more, we were sitting on the Tour des Mouverans ready to start the trek early tomorrow morning.

The first day of trekking took us down to Derborence, situated on the impressive Lac de Derborence, site of a tragic avalanche over 250 years ago. Finally, a 1000m ascent takes us up to the Refuge Rambert.  This refuge, situated on the Col has breathtaking views across the mountain range and Chamois living within throwing distance of the hut.  Although the thin walls of the dorm rooms made for quite a disturb night, we were tired enough after our long first day to appreciate anywhere to lay our heads.

The next day we made our way down a perfect glaciated valley identifying alpine flowers and their medicinal uses along the way. Our arrival at lunchtime at the Cabane du Fénestral meant we were able to shelter from the brief rain-shower whilst enjoying a cup of fruit tea and consuming our sandwiches.  Every mouthful eaten was a benefit as it lightened our load.  The logical aim for the day became to eat as much of our lunch food as possible.    

Once the rain had subsided we made our way to the Cabane Demecre, belonging to the Trotteurs running club.  This delightful hut manned entirely by volunteers was extremely welcoming. The smell of fresh bread being taken out of the oven as we arrived from the rain helped no end with this and the friendly chatter of the volunteers made us feel at home.  Once the rain had stopped the sun warmed the air and we wandered out to admire the view, practice some rope work, identify some more flowers and generally make the most of being in the area.

Day 3 took us along the high route over the Col des Martinets and down the Nant valley to Pont de Nant where we were to stay the night.  The valley was very long and the descent harder than any ascent we'd done while we were there.  However the magnificent views along the way and thoughts of a good meal when we arrived made it possible to drag ourselves on to the Refuge.  Once the typical afternoon storm had passed we visited the local botanical gardens where, once some interesting flowers had been identified, we were lucky enough to see a bat, drying itself on the leaves of a plant. 

The final day completed our Tour des Mouverans and brought us back to Solalex via the Col des Essets.  This circular trip of 70km and 4000m ascent is well worth the effort offering magnificent views and incredible diversity as it works its way round the mountain range.  Many thanks to John for accompanying me and testing my local knowledge along the way.  

http://www.tourdesmuverans.ch/carte-geographique.html