Everest Base Camp Charity Trek with Children in Crossfire

Another fun trip to EBC with a slightly later departure than usual the trek went into December and the temperatures were dropping. However the Irish team with an optimism, enthusiasm and entertainment ability that I have never before seen in a group, were ready for anything.  Supporting the local charity 'children in crossfire' (www.childrenincrossfire.org/) the determination was high to achieve their objective.

After a few days in Kathmandu getting used to the country, we flew to Lukla and started making our way up hills and towards our goal of Everest Base Camp. As a highly caring and supportive group, everyone helped each other out and quickly became a close team.

A slow and steady acclimatisation profile had us arriving in Dingboche five days after we started walking.  Unfortunately at this point two of the group had to leave us.  Siobhan headed slowly back to Lukla with Lakpha and I took Al to Pheriche hospital. 

Al was suffering from a severe headache and lack of appetite.  Having spent an hour in a PAC bag at the tea house, the hospital did further tests and quickly evacuated him back to Kathmandu where it was confirmed he was showing the early signs of high altitude cerebral edema.  He rested and recovered in back in the city and was pleased to join up with the rest of the team on our return.

A tough two day walk the rest of the way to Base Camp took the remaining team members a huge amount of determination - but they all made it with smiles on their faces.  Nuala and Jim had to work particularly hard as they were fighting colds all the way.

 

Unfortunately, as we were descending, Nuala became weaker and slower.  Struggling to descend safely, a phone call to a local doctor in Kathmandu indicated that the safest course of action would be to evacuate Nuala and she was rapidly flown out of Lobuche that afternoon.  Luckily she quickly recovered on descent and following a few days of rest, was back to full strength.

The rest of the team still had a swift two and a half day walk back to Lukla.  the clear skies, beautiful views and draws of a shower and some meat made it far easier to walk down than up. 

And then the party - the Irish certainly know how to party.  With Gavin organising the refreshments, Diarmuid organising the Irish songs and everyone full of energy, Lukla didn’t know what had hit it.  A fantastic way to end an unforgettable trip to the mountains.

This trip outlines the importance of having a reliable and well organised in country agent and Dawa, with his in depth local knowledge and contact helped made sure everything ran smoothly (www.adventurethamserku.com/).

Leading for Global Adventure Challenges (www.globaladventurechallenges.com). 

Everest Base Camp and Island Peak

Waiting at the busy arrivals area of Kathmandu International airport with a Jagged Globe sign larger than my head, I peered around looking for the distinctive red kit bags that would identify my team when they finally made their way out in the heat of Nepal.  Finally I saw them, counting their arrival by the number of bulging red bags.  7, 8, 9, 10... Wait a minute, I'm sure I'm only looking for 9 bags - 9 clients.

 

We quickly establish that my entire team have made it safely to Kathmandu and the tenth arrival is Ron - who will be joining Adele on the Kyajo Ri Trip.  A short stay at the Summit hotel into which we pack in a trip briefing, introductions, kit check, medical updates, dinner and a very short sleep before pilling onto a wonderfully on-time flight to Lukla.

 

Suddenly we are surrounded by mountains, porters, yaks and big pots of lemon tea.  The culture shock is what we came here for, along with the breathtaking views and  thrill of a climb - the excitement is bubbling just under the surface.  The walk to Namche takes just two days and there are so many assaults on the sense and sights to take in along the way that the team are pleased they will have the opportunity to pass this way on the return journey to make the most of what they are missing first time around.

 

Our acclimatisation time in Namche is not wasted and during our trip to the Everest View hotel we are rewarded with a clear panorama stretching as far as the eye can see - enjoyed with tea and cake.  A very civilised way to break us into the mountain environment.  During our stay in Namche, Ant makes it clear to us that he has brought a very special gift with him.  I am the first to receive the gift but over the next two weeks it makes its way around the team and few were able to refuse the fresh head cold which he brought with him directly from the UK.

Another two days of trekking took us above the tree line to our next acclimatisation test at Dingboche.  A beautiful bustling village with Mamas bakery to abate James unquenchable appetite, an informative talk on altitude at the local Medical centre and a short but tough acclimatisation walk onto the ridge between Dinboche and Pheriche.

 

Feeling good at 4400m we slowly climb to Gorak Shep. With 3 days to ascend 800m we have plenty of time to enjoy the environment, views, food, company and make sure we arrive feeling as fresh as we can at 5200m.  Ant's gift is still being given and received around the team but it is Ant himself who is making the most of the cold he is sharing with us.  However, how can you not smile when you are living in a cold mountain environment surrounded by views that take away any breath you may be able to take at high altitude.

 

Finally we are here, we trek slowly to Base Camp where one remaining Japanese team are preparing a final assault of the season on Everest.  The walk in along the glacier does not contain much up - just 150m - but it is Nepali flat all the way and the terrain is tough going.  However, the team arrives with smiles on the faces: for some this has been a dream for many years.  Congratulations to everyone in the team for making it to Everest Base Camp.

 

The next morning we make an early start in the cold air to climb Kala Pattar.  About half way up the path becomes less steep and we stop to breath and admire the first views of Everest that we have seen for a few days. As the route steepens again, the pace slows and the summit becomes nearer. A short scramble at high altitude brings the team to a small area covered in prayer flags.  Layers of clothing, hats and gloves are pulled out of bags as the wind cuts through the air, cameras follow shortly after and smiles are clear on every face that is admiring the view.  Well done to Pete, James, Olly, Mark, Ant, Colin and Jane for reaching the summit.

 

 

Objectives in this area complete the team splits in two with some making their way via Pheriche around the valley floor to Chekkung and James, Olly, Mark, Colin and Jane battle over the Kongma La.  The steep scree slopes and the altitude make the going tough but arriving at the top of the pass brings different views and much rejoicing. The descent to Chekkung is long, gentle and beautiful and Jane achieved things she never thought possible.  Well done Jane!

 

Arriving in Chekkung at the top of the Imje Valley, the whole team met up again briefly.  Here we would leave Jane who has achieved everything she set out to do, and who will wait for us to return from the mountain in the relative comfort of a local Lodge. The next morning we make our way to Base Camp, a secluded camp site well before the main Base Camp of Island Peak and with no one else in sight.  The team really feels like they are going to climb a mountain now and the anticipation creeps up.

 

The next morning we sadly say goodbye to Alan and Mary-Kate and make our way to High Camp.  This is a cold windy campsite at 5600m and the team are pleased to be ale to retreat into their tents early to make final ascent preparations and be brought soup and high energy food which will help power them up the mountain.

In the middle of the night a cup of steaming bed tea, followed by breakfast is brought to the tents.  Slowly the team emerge dressed in summit clothing, helmets and double boots with ice axes, crampons and harnesses stowed away in backpacks.  Water and packed lunches are added to the supplies and the group turn towards the summit.  A slow dark scramble takes the team to crampon point and then further to the fixed ropes.

 

As ascenders scrape up the ropes and ice axes pound into the ice the slow ascent continues in the first light of dawn.  Edging along the summit ridge, passing a large Korean group along the way, brief summit photos and whoops of joy escape the summiting team members before the long ascent back to High Camp. Congratulations to James, Mark, Olly, Colin and Ant to reaching the summit.

 

A final night was spent in High Camp to regain strength before meeting Jane back in Chekkung the next day and slowly making our way back to Namche and finally Lukla via Phakding. A sad farewell party and some Sherpa dancing mark the end of the trip to the mountains. The next morning took the team back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu for some final shopping in Thamal, visits of the local sights and farewell dinners.

 

Congratulations to everyone in the team for an excellent trip, achieving your goals and pushing yourselves to new horizons.

 

Leading for Jagged Globe

www.jagged-globe.co.uk

 

 

Tanzania - Kilimanjaro (Lemosho Glades)

An early start found me standing at Manchester airport at 4am waiting for Amber and Jess. They were easy to spot, not just thanks to their large red Jagged Globe bags, but also the fact they are identical twins. Identical rucksacks too, except that Amber's is blue and Jess' is green - although it took quite a while to work that out because Amber's hat is green and Jess' is blue. Luckily they both respond to either name and are very easy going about the numerous mistakes the team made throughout the week. 

The three of us made our way to Amsterdam where we met the rest of the team - except Juan who was already busy relaxing in Tanzania after flying out early from Costa Rica. A delay in the flights meant arriving in the middle of the night.  Luckily the excitement of the next day kept us alert and early on Saturday morning the entire team met for the first time to prepare for departure into the Kilimanjaro National Park.

A 3 hour drive had us arriving at the Landorossi Gate for lunch and a talk about altitude.  We eventually started making our way towards Big Tree Camp mid afternoon and the pleasant and gradual climb was an ideal start for an exhausted team of trekkers.  Everyone was going to have to eat and sleep hard in order to regain strength lost by two short nights sleep if we were to have an chance of enjoying ourselves on the mountain. 

Luckily an excellent in country crew provided a fantastic three course meal in a mess tent lit with shiny new black diamond lamps. That, combined with spacious tents and our own private toilet tent made all the difference in making everyone feel comfortable (especially Elaine who was over the moon to see the toilet tent). 

The next morning got even better as everyone was treated to a hot drink I'm bed - to serve as their wake up call - followed by warm washing water and a three course breakfast (porridge, cooked breakfast and fruit along with plenty of hot drinks). This set the team up perfectly for the days walking and the treatment remained as high quality throughout the entire trek. 

The walk across the Shira Plateau took two days with a side trip to Shira Cathedral offering breathtaking views onto the plains below and over to Mount Meru. The path, which started in the forest, first becomes a savannah of tall grasses eventually becoming meadow and then semi desert.  From Shira Camp 2 we can see Kibo Peak clearly for the first time and the reality of what the team have embarked on begins to dawn on them. 

With this new clarity of purpose, it is an excited group that prepares for the long walk to Barranco Camp via the Lava Tower. A long walk up followed by a descent that takes us into a camp so close to Kibo Peak that you can almost touch it. With the Barranco Wall looming down on us, Elaine prepared herself for her toughest day yet.  An incredibly determined woman with a fear of scrambling she clambered up the wall holding onto local guide Davis' hand all the way. 

By this time the team have begun entertaining themselves with various word games and inventions - generally on Johns initiative but with a lot of support from Michael.  Keep your eyes peeled for the forthcoming Stallion drink with specific medicinal properties which John assures us all will soon be on the market.  

With entertainment and moral taken care of by John, we arrive in high spirits at Karanga Camp from where the best views of Mount Meru can be seen. For lunch, we are treated to chicken and chips before resting at 4050m in preparation for the big day tomorrow. 

Finally with no headaches in sight and five days of trekking behind us we make our way to our final and highest camp before attempting to climb to the roof of Africa.  Barafu Camp is situated at 4650m and is a busy camp full of excited people preparing to climb and exhausted people returning from a long night out. 

We arrive for lunch with plenty of time to eat, rehydrate, pack, plan and prepare for our big summit departure. Final checks of summit outfits, removal of all un essential gear from rucksacks and as much sleep as can be obtained when at that altitude and excited about climbing one of the seven summits.

At midnight we quietly eat our porridge and drink as much as possible before walking out into the cold night air to begin the long ascent.  After a number of hours we say goodbye to Roger as he returns to camp.  A few hours after that the team stop for a hot drink.  Constantly checking on the team for cold, exhaustion and signs of AMS, everyone is doing well.  Juan is always "great" but finally, an hour before sunrise I receive the reply "I've downgraded from great to very good". Retaining a sense of humour when undertaking a mountain like this is a must!

Exhausted we arrive at Stella Point at 7:30am taking the time to eat, drink and rest for a short while before saying goodbye to Jess who makes her way back down.  The rest of the team reach Uhuru Peak at 9am with just enough time for a few photos and self congratulation before heading back to camp.

The views on the way down can be appreciated now and the form of Mawenzi Peak is seen clearly in the distance.  An hour of rest is much appreciated before trying to eat something and making our way down to Millenium Camp for a nights sleep at a lower altitude.

Finally, our last day on the mountain and our last in Tanzania.  We reach the Mweka Gate  by midday have lunch with our guides back at the hotel before indulging in a much deserved shower and heading to the airport.  Jess, Amber and Juan are lucky enough to be staying on for a few extra days of Safari - we are all jealous and can't wait to hear about it.

Congratulations to everyone for putting 100% into the trip. Everyone pushed themselves to the limit and should be proud of their achievements. A special congratulations to Elaine, Irene, Amber, Carl, John, Michael, Juan and Simon for reaching Uruhu Peak.

Well done everyone, a fantastic trip and a lot of fun. 

Leading for Jagged Globe

www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Tanzania - Kilimajaro (Machame Route)

I am sitting in another dance studio, in another school, at the other end of the country, nearly a month after I met my Scottish group.  This time I am appreciating my last few minutes of quiet before eight young men from Wilson’s School in south London, bound into Hayes Community College.  They break my silent reflection and explode their rucksacks all over the floor in preparation for a kit check.

Having removed all unessential personal kit (including Ed’s boot cleaning set), found space for the group kit and completed all final briefings, we board the bus, then the plane to Nairobi and finally almost 24 hours after first meeting, we land at Kilimanjaro airport, Tanzania.

With the town of Arusha our base for the next three weeks we make our way to a hostel and begin our orientation phase.  We have phones to buy, a city to discover, meths to find, a week’s menu to plan and purchase and some fun to have.  The team experienced a steep learning curve when accosted by a particularly persistent tout on their first day visiting the market area.

Finally we start making our way 80km north to Longido, home of the Masai and base for our acclimatisation trek and project phase.  Starting out on the trek, we make our way towards Longido Mountain, our objective towering in the background.  Our Masai guides protect us with spears and lead the way.  Our guides ease in the environment is clear as they carry little more than a small plastic bag of essential kit to accompany their weapons making us look slightly over prepared with large expedition rucksacks containing everything from tents and stoves to food and a change of clothes.  And why would you need a tooth brush? They clearly demonstrate the use of a natural version – a stick.

After a successful summit with an exciting scramble at the top, we find ourselves back in Longido preparing for our project phase.  The team is disappointed to find that the playground we had planned to help build will not be going ahead due to disputes over land ownership.  Luckily the creation of a football stadium is the centre of the town’s development and the team help make and transport bricks, dig foundations and build walls for it.   A lot of hard work rewarded with a game of football with the locals.

The project phase was intermingled with lots of cultural visits and the team were lucky enough to visit a boma (Masai village) and a Masai Warriors cave.  In the cave, young Masai men hang out and eat meat for anything from 10 days to a month, depending on how much meat they have.  The Warriors eat, sleep, chat and rest. When the meat has been eaten, they go home.

With the project phase and a day of preparation in Arusha complete, we turn towards our main objective for the expedition – Kilimanjaro.  The team are fortunate to benefit from an excellent acclimatisation profile with 8 days on the mountain.  This greatly enhances the probability of success by allowing the team enough time to adapt to the diminishing quantities of oxygen available to them as they make their way up the mountain.

The first few days take the team through rain forest and out onto dusty plains.  Finally, we are above the clouds and get our first glimpse of the mountain.  It still looks so big and so far away it is difficult to come to terms with the fact that we aim to be standing on the top of it in just a few days time.  As we look back down at the view, all we can see is a sea of cloud and Mount Meru rising out of it: an inspiring view which will stay with us for the rest of the trip.

On day 3 we have lunch at Lava Tower (4600m) before descending to Barranco camp for 2 night’s acclimatisation.  An acclimatisation trek takes us onto the ridge above the camp.  With just a few light headaches between the team there has obviously been eating and drinking plenty and looking after themselves in order to acclimatise properly.

The daunting Barranco wall is scaled more easily than the team expected and the scramble to the top was enjoyed by all though watching the porters dance up the wall with their loads balancing precariously on their heads made us feel like we were making rather a big deal out if it.

After passing spending an extra night at Karanga Valley we finally arrive at Barafu Camp and begin to prepare for the summit.  With the team composed of all males ranging from 16-18 years, food has been a constant source of discussion.  Usually there is not enough of it and fending for yourself at meal times has become a necessary survival skill.  For the first time on the trip, there is food left on the table as appetites diminish due to the altitude.  Sleep is also difficult to find but we retire early to rest if not sleep.

We are up again at 11pm and after a hot drink and some final preparations we set off at midnight.  Luck is on our side and the moon is still quite full providing good light and little need for head torches.  The couple of hours of the walk are warm, exciting and really quite pleasant.  At around 3 am it gets cold, very cold.  And the path steepens.  Conversation dwindles and the slow plod for the summit has begun in earnest.

Rahul is suffering with mild asthma but is determined to overcome his challenge and continue with the team.  Andre is quietly retching, his nausea making it difficult for him but he has also found the determination within himself to continue.   The steep path to Stella Point seems to continue forever but we are just 1 hour away now and I can see the first colouring of red in the sky.

The a voice from behind me breaks the silence – ‘Jo, Kierans hit the ground’

All manor scenarios flash through my mind as I rush back to find Kieran lying on the scree slope.  Automatically working out how to descend him as fast as possible, I begin talking to Kieran who seems strangely fine.  What happened?  He fell asleep.  Kieran mastered the skill of sleep walking – almost.  Having checked him for any signs of altitude illness I’m confident that he’s ok to continue and taking his arm we walk together to Stella Point, my constant babble of chatter keeping him awake.

The pain and achievement of arriving at Stella Point at sunrise, gave way to a pleasant walk along the crater rim with views that take your breath away.  Everybody in the team made it to the summit of Kilimanjaro that day and it was down to their excellent preparation and strong determination to succeed.  Each and every one of them deserved it.  Congratulations!

Ascending the mountain is only half the journey and the 2 days of descend to Mweka hut is painful on the knees and seems to go on forever.  We finally arrived at the gate and with showers, a safari day  and some last minute souvenir shopping tempting us back to Arusha we turned away from the mountain for the last time.

Leading for Outlook Expeditions

http://www.outlookexpeditions.com/

Southern Peru - Ausangate Trek

Inveralmond Community High School Gym, Saturday 16th June, we come together as a team for the first time to embark on our month long expedition to Southern Peru. The day is packed with last minute personal kit checks; distribution of group kit into bulging rucksacks; security briefings; first aid briefings; country briefings; distribution of roles and anything else we can fit into the small window of time we have before jumping on our flight at Edinburgh airport.

Almost 24 hours later, arriving in Lima the high rise buildings, misty skies, and light drizzle remind us reassuringly of home and the team is able to embark on making preparations to leave the security of the big city in relative relaxation.  There is much to do; starting with a meeting with the in country agent and the money man, the purchase of a phone and travel arrangements get sandwiched in the middle and a trip put for pizza to round off the first day in this exciting new country.

Our first bus experience takes us south to Paracas to visit the Islas Ballestas, otherwise known as poor mans Galapagos. A swift boat trip around the island, with birds and guano everywhere, we make it back to shore, pleased that Conor has done his security job properly (check the sea worthiness and safety of the boat).

With Jack becoming team leader, we make it safely onto an overnight bus that takes us further south and we begin our slow ascent to high altitude. Arequipa, the white city shines in the sunlight with the volcano El Misti sitting perfectly on the horizon. This is a short stop but provides a little time for an acclimatisation trek - allowing us to take our first step towards tolerating the heat and the diminishing amounts of oxygen in the the air.

Next we head towards Puno, the capital of Folklore situated on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. As we visit Urus, one the floating reed islands, the team learns more in an hour of observing this fascinating culture than they could ever dream of by reading a text book.

After Puno we turn towards Cusco, our base for the remaining 2 1/2 weeks of this journey. Having felt the effects of the lower levels of oxygen in the air at Puno, Cusco is warmer and lower.  Our acclimatisation time is spent on day treks from the city taking in the fascinating archeological sites of the surrounding area and honing our fitness for 'the big one'.

 

Finally we embark on the project phase of the expedition. Our goal: to help a local community build a medical centre. Alfredo, a native from the village of Chillipower, guides us for 7 hours over a pass to the community where we will spend the next 5 days.  With Sebastian the project manager guiding us, supported by team leaders Blair, Rachel and Kieran the days are spent splitting bamboo, nailing it to the ceiling and windows, collecting woods and watching with fascination the experts cover our work with plaster at a speed we could only dream of. 

Back in Cusco, we have a days rest which we spend white water rafting before turning our minds to the trek.  Alfredo is back to help our guide Antonio for 7 days, no showers, small tents in a remote mountain area.  We are to trek around Ausangate (6380m), the highest mountain in the area over passes of up to 5100m. A challenging trek with many, many tears but even more rewards. The unusual amounts of snow and high winds make the trek even more challenging but who can forget eating a fully cooked lunch at 4900m with a beautifully prepared table in the snow?  And then hot springs in the snow?

Due to the strength of the team, a rest day near the end allowed those with the inclination to do so, to sample a Pacha Manka. This is a local method of cooking meat in the ground and we bought an alpaca for the purpose.  Although Devon, our vegetarian found this an especially difficult event to witness, it was a very special occasion.

Having tasted Ceviche, Alpaca, Lomo Saltado, local trout and many different varieties of potatoes, there remained the final Peruvian delicacy to try before our departure.  Half the team sat at the table around the plates of guinea pig knowing that those who had snuck off to McDonalds were missing out on a once in a life time experience.

With the month having disappeared in the blink of the eye, Lima is unchanged and the misty drizzle prepared us for the long fight back to Scotland via Amsterdam.  


Leading for World Challenge
http://www.world-challenge.co.uk/

Everest Base Camp, Nepal

Arriving at the airport three and a half hours before the departure of our flight to Delhi I expected to have a little time before the rest of the group arrived.  To my surprise more than half of them were already there and waiting with Richard explaining what would happen and how the trek would come together.  Richard had been to Nepal before.  After a disappointing evacuation from Namche last October, he was back with the determination to try again and was very effectively making sure everyone in the team was happy.

The rest of the group arrived and we flew without incident to Kathmandu via Delhi: A tiring but pleasant journey which brought us to the peaceful Summit hotel.  After a curry buffet everyone opted for an early night in preparation for the final flight of our outward journey.  This is always the most nerve racking flight of the trip.  The small plane, the risk of a bumpy flight, the exciting short runway with a cliff at the end and the question at the back of all our minds – will the skies be clear enough to fly?

Luck was on our side, everything ran smoothly for us and we were walking up the trail from Lukla by 10:30.  The heat of the day, a long journey only just behind us and getting used to trekking made the walk to Monjo feel slightly longer than it was but the impressive views, large mountains and anticipation of the next few weeks propelled the team up path to our first night in a tea house.

Ensuite bathrooms with hot showers: Are we in the right country?  The tea house was the lap of luxury and everyone was beginning to relax.  That was until the moths attacked.  Colin was thoughtfully reading with a head torch so that Stuart could sleep soundly next to him.  This well thought out strategy was excellent until his screams woke the entire team including Stewart.  Is this the same man we had nicknamed Bear Grills?

The incident deterred none of us and the next morning bright and early, we continued up the trail for a few days acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar.  This allowed time for visiting the local villages including the Hilary school and hospital, taking in the magnificent views of Everest, purchasing last minute hats and other essential items and enjoying civilised visits to the bakery where as many different varieties of cake as possible were consumed.  It was at this point that the team became aware of Simons rucksack.  It appeared to be surgically attached to his back and we began to question whether he was actually sleeping with it on.

Once fully acclimatised to 3400 metres, we carried on up the path to Debouche.  Happily for all of us Richard was still with us and now every step was new for him too so we felt we were stepping into a different phase of the trip.  There was considerable debate about the hill leading to the Tengboche monastery.  Is it bigger, harder, more impressive than the infamous Namche hill?  The jury is still out on that one and I suggest we go back and try again – for research purposes.  The clouds had come in by the time we reached the tea house in Debouche but that made the surprise in the morning even better.  There is no view from a bedroom window than Everest and Ama Dablan.

Our next stop was Dingboche where we spent another two nights acclimatising, wandered up the ridge for more magnificent views and attended a very interesting talk on high altitude acclimatisation run by the Himalayan Rescue Association based in Pheriche.  By this time, Lakpha our Sirdar, had already proved his weight in gold by provided snacks both on the trail just when they were needed and nuts and biscuits in the evenings to keep spirits high

Ready for the next stage of our journey, we made our way to Lobuche where we threw a surprise party for Simon who, as the youngest in the group, turned thirty.  There were balloons, songs and candles on a cake which Nwawang had carried all the way from Dingboche.  We stayed an extra day in Lobuche to help acclimatise and made the most of the extra time to visit the Italian research pyramid where we were lucky enough to receive a guided visit of the current experiments.

Finally the time had come and we trekked the remaining trail to Gorak Shep.  Anticipation mounted as we prepared for our Everest Base Camp Visit.  The route took us along a typically ‘Nepali flat’ trail (read undulating) to the Jagged Globe tents at the far end of base camp.  We were welcomed by Adam the base camp manager and chef who made us feel very welcome and even treated us to apple and blackberry crumble with cream – after filing us with a magnificent main course. 

All the Jagged Globe climbers were on the mountain assessing the weather for a possible summit bid when we arrived but Richard was lucky enough to speak to Adele Pennington via radio.  A content group made their way back to Gorak Shep in a light snow shower which for many rounded off the day perfectly.  Congratulations to the entire team for making it to Everest Base Camp, it was well deserved.

The next morning a few intrepid trekkers (Stewart, Colin, Jim and Andrea) pushed for the summit of Kala Pattar while the rest started making their way back down to thicker air and warmer climates.  Those that summited were rewarded with clear views of Everest and the surrounding mountains, with Pumori becoming a favourite among the group.  Well done to everyone who climbed Kala Pattar.

The team met up in Pheriche that evening and thoughts began to turn towards Kathmandu and home.  A few more days trekking down found us in Lukla for an exciting last night party with the Sherpas.  Not only did they work incredibly hard throughout the trip but they also out danced each and every one of us.  The next morning we flew back to Kathmandu without delay and finally, as we landed Simon managed to extract himself from his rucksack.  The team spent a few days relaxing by the pool and visiting the local sights before flying back to the UK.

An excellent trip, congratulations to all for achieving your goals!

Leading for Jagged Globe

http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/

Grand Canyon, USA

After a lot of hustle and bustle at Edinburgh airport, the entire group managed to make it onto the plane for a long flight to the USA.  Excitement rippled through the team and even after many hours of travel, some were unable to sleep when we arrived, slightly bedraggled at the hotel in Phoenix.

Despite the lack of sleep we were on our way early the next morning towards Sedona where a short preparation trek got us ready for the descent into the Grand Canyon the next day. At the top of the Canyon, preparations took place; water bottles checked, snacks double checked, boots tightened and rucksacks adjusted.  The anticipation rose as the group readied themselves for the challenge they had set themselves.

While the rest of the team trekked through the heat of the day towards the village of Havasupai (People of the blue-green water), I was lucky enough to see the views from above as I made a speedy descent by helicopter.  I rejoined the team at base camp, a few miles further down the canyon.

Emotions ran high for all the participants as the beauty of the walks, the challenges of descent and memories of the reason they were there hit home.  The trek took place to raise funds for Marie Curie Cancer Care and whether the participants had been directly affected by the illness or not, it was close to everyone’s heart.

Climbing out of the Canyon on the final day was a real challenge with the sun beating down and a climb of about 300m.  Everyone was delighted to reach the rim.  Some wondering why they didn’t take up the offer of a horse as the equestrians gracefully appeared over the rim with not a drop of sweat among them.

A final dash for Las Vegas and after a well earned wash and change of cloths the team was treated to a celebration meal at Hard Rock Café.  Then there were the bars, the casinos and the rest of the night ahead of us…

Well done to all; it was a real challenge for each and everyone, in very different ways.

Leading for Global Adventure Challenges

http://www.globaladventurechallenges.com/

Stok Kangri, India

We met at the airport and identified each other thanks to the distinctive red Jagged Globe bags.  Excitement levels were high and anticipation great as we boarded the plane for Delhi.  Our first task was identifying our missing person.  Ian had become delayed during his transfer from Scotland but once located, the team was complete and everyone was ready to take on the challenge of the next seventeen days.

After recovering in Delhi for a day we flew to Leh.  The views from the flight were breath taking and only helped to increase the sense of excitement that everyone was feeling.  With a few days in Leh, the group which was fast becoming a team, took to the task of acclimatising to the new altitude of 3350m.  With local markets to visit, last minute supplies to stock up on and monasteries to visit, everyone was kept busy.

Finally, six days into the trip, the trek began.  The weather was on our side, as the torrential rains that we had been experiencing since our arrival in Leh cleared and the sun came out.  The first two days were beautiful providing fantastic views and an idea of what we could expect over the next 10 days.  Arid landscapes, mountains as far as the eye could see in every direction and a feeling of being the only people in the world at that time, made the walking even more special.

As we arrived at camp at the end of day two, everyone was breathless.  Not from the altitude but due to the pure beauty of the campsite.  Situated at a convergence of two rivers and raised slightly to provide views of mountain ranges in three directions, the general consensus was that life couldn't get much better.  Those with a little energy to spare joined a local boy of about ten years old in a game of football with a half inflated ball.  Luckily the fantastic spread which is known as dinner called us away before anyone had to admit to defeat by the altitude.

A long walk up across the Shang Pu provided a good work out to 4960m.  The views and sense of achievement at reaching the pass soon swept any memory of the climb out of our minds as we looked down towards the next valley.  When the team eventually reached the campsite after a long hard day of walking, it was the 360^o views rather than the long trek which had everyone breathless. Margaret, never far from one of her cameras, made it known that she had taken shots from the toilet tent as there is nothing better than a loo with a view.

After breakfast outside, taking in the views for the final time, the team headed towards the Matho La where we rewarded with our first clear sight of Stok Kangri.  Everyone stopped in their tracks.  It looked big.  Excitement bubbled below the surface as everyone was reminded that we were here to climb that beautiful and awe inspiring mountain.

Finally we arrived at a bustling base camp and spent a few additional days exploring the area, acclimatizing to the new height of 4900m and preparing for summit day.  With some minor medical problems to overcome, this time was much needed by some.  Others took the opportunity to remind themselves that patience and respect are essential in the mountains.

Summit day started at midnight the team set off in the silent darkness towards the mountain.  With the first few hours of the climb walked over the previous days, we were covering familiar ground but as we reached the glacier, anticipation grew.  Zoe turned round at this point, still suffering from a cold and some sickness and headed back to camp having made an excellent effort.  As the climb continued towards the ridge, others wondered if they too should have turned back.  

As the ridge was reached and the sun rose, the views swept some of the pain out of the climb the climbers minds.  The ridge was steep and with loose rocks and steep scree, there was some short roping to make sure that everyone made the summit successfully.  And they did.  As the prayer flags fluttered in the light wind, the sky was clear and the views endless.  The team rested for 40 minutes before making the return journey to camp.

And all this time, Biku was in our minds.  He left camp a little ahead of us and travelled with a determination I have seldom seen.  We passed him just below the summit as Margaret, Chris, Ian, James, Norbu and I made our way back to camp.  Biku was on the mountain longer than anyone else and with Temba to guide and support him, he didn’t waver and didn’t give up.  Biku returned to camp to a standing ovation from the rest of the team.

After much celebrating and smiles all round and a quick game of cricket at Base Camp, we returned to Leh and then Delhi where we found the energy to celebrate a little more.  Finally, goodbyes were said as Biku headed south to visit his family, Margaret disappeared on a camel and the rest of the team made their way back to the UK.

An enjoyable and successful trip - congratulations to all!




Leading for Jagged Globe
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