Everest Base Camp Charity Trek with Children in Crossfire

Another fun trip to EBC with a slightly later departure than usual the trek went into December and the temperatures were dropping. However the Irish team with an optimism, enthusiasm and entertainment ability that I have never before seen in a group, were ready for anything.  Supporting the local charity 'children in crossfire' (www.childrenincrossfire.org/) the determination was high to achieve their objective.

After a few days in Kathmandu getting used to the country, we flew to Lukla and started making our way up hills and towards our goal of Everest Base Camp. As a highly caring and supportive group, everyone helped each other out and quickly became a close team.

A slow and steady acclimatisation profile had us arriving in Dingboche five days after we started walking.  Unfortunately at this point two of the group had to leave us.  Siobhan headed slowly back to Lukla with Lakpha and I took Al to Pheriche hospital. 

Al was suffering from a severe headache and lack of appetite.  Having spent an hour in a PAC bag at the tea house, the hospital did further tests and quickly evacuated him back to Kathmandu where it was confirmed he was showing the early signs of high altitude cerebral edema.  He rested and recovered in back in the city and was pleased to join up with the rest of the team on our return.

A tough two day walk the rest of the way to Base Camp took the remaining team members a huge amount of determination - but they all made it with smiles on their faces.  Nuala and Jim had to work particularly hard as they were fighting colds all the way.

 

Unfortunately, as we were descending, Nuala became weaker and slower.  Struggling to descend safely, a phone call to a local doctor in Kathmandu indicated that the safest course of action would be to evacuate Nuala and she was rapidly flown out of Lobuche that afternoon.  Luckily she quickly recovered on descent and following a few days of rest, was back to full strength.

The rest of the team still had a swift two and a half day walk back to Lukla.  the clear skies, beautiful views and draws of a shower and some meat made it far easier to walk down than up. 

And then the party - the Irish certainly know how to party.  With Gavin organising the refreshments, Diarmuid organising the Irish songs and everyone full of energy, Lukla didn’t know what had hit it.  A fantastic way to end an unforgettable trip to the mountains.

This trip outlines the importance of having a reliable and well organised in country agent and Dawa, with his in depth local knowledge and contact helped made sure everything ran smoothly (www.adventurethamserku.com/).

Leading for Global Adventure Challenges (www.globaladventurechallenges.com). 

Everest Base Camp and Island Peak

Waiting at the busy arrivals area of Kathmandu International airport with a Jagged Globe sign larger than my head, I peered around looking for the distinctive red kit bags that would identify my team when they finally made their way out in the heat of Nepal.  Finally I saw them, counting their arrival by the number of bulging red bags.  7, 8, 9, 10... Wait a minute, I'm sure I'm only looking for 9 bags - 9 clients.

 

We quickly establish that my entire team have made it safely to Kathmandu and the tenth arrival is Ron - who will be joining Adele on the Kyajo Ri Trip.  A short stay at the Summit hotel into which we pack in a trip briefing, introductions, kit check, medical updates, dinner and a very short sleep before pilling onto a wonderfully on-time flight to Lukla.

 

Suddenly we are surrounded by mountains, porters, yaks and big pots of lemon tea.  The culture shock is what we came here for, along with the breathtaking views and  thrill of a climb - the excitement is bubbling just under the surface.  The walk to Namche takes just two days and there are so many assaults on the sense and sights to take in along the way that the team are pleased they will have the opportunity to pass this way on the return journey to make the most of what they are missing first time around.

 

Our acclimatisation time in Namche is not wasted and during our trip to the Everest View hotel we are rewarded with a clear panorama stretching as far as the eye can see - enjoyed with tea and cake.  A very civilised way to break us into the mountain environment.  During our stay in Namche, Ant makes it clear to us that he has brought a very special gift with him.  I am the first to receive the gift but over the next two weeks it makes its way around the team and few were able to refuse the fresh head cold which he brought with him directly from the UK.

Another two days of trekking took us above the tree line to our next acclimatisation test at Dingboche.  A beautiful bustling village with Mamas bakery to abate James unquenchable appetite, an informative talk on altitude at the local Medical centre and a short but tough acclimatisation walk onto the ridge between Dinboche and Pheriche.

 

Feeling good at 4400m we slowly climb to Gorak Shep. With 3 days to ascend 800m we have plenty of time to enjoy the environment, views, food, company and make sure we arrive feeling as fresh as we can at 5200m.  Ant's gift is still being given and received around the team but it is Ant himself who is making the most of the cold he is sharing with us.  However, how can you not smile when you are living in a cold mountain environment surrounded by views that take away any breath you may be able to take at high altitude.

 

Finally we are here, we trek slowly to Base Camp where one remaining Japanese team are preparing a final assault of the season on Everest.  The walk in along the glacier does not contain much up - just 150m - but it is Nepali flat all the way and the terrain is tough going.  However, the team arrives with smiles on the faces: for some this has been a dream for many years.  Congratulations to everyone in the team for making it to Everest Base Camp.

 

The next morning we make an early start in the cold air to climb Kala Pattar.  About half way up the path becomes less steep and we stop to breath and admire the first views of Everest that we have seen for a few days. As the route steepens again, the pace slows and the summit becomes nearer. A short scramble at high altitude brings the team to a small area covered in prayer flags.  Layers of clothing, hats and gloves are pulled out of bags as the wind cuts through the air, cameras follow shortly after and smiles are clear on every face that is admiring the view.  Well done to Pete, James, Olly, Mark, Ant, Colin and Jane for reaching the summit.

 

 

Objectives in this area complete the team splits in two with some making their way via Pheriche around the valley floor to Chekkung and James, Olly, Mark, Colin and Jane battle over the Kongma La.  The steep scree slopes and the altitude make the going tough but arriving at the top of the pass brings different views and much rejoicing. The descent to Chekkung is long, gentle and beautiful and Jane achieved things she never thought possible.  Well done Jane!

 

Arriving in Chekkung at the top of the Imje Valley, the whole team met up again briefly.  Here we would leave Jane who has achieved everything she set out to do, and who will wait for us to return from the mountain in the relative comfort of a local Lodge. The next morning we make our way to Base Camp, a secluded camp site well before the main Base Camp of Island Peak and with no one else in sight.  The team really feels like they are going to climb a mountain now and the anticipation creeps up.

 

The next morning we sadly say goodbye to Alan and Mary-Kate and make our way to High Camp.  This is a cold windy campsite at 5600m and the team are pleased to be ale to retreat into their tents early to make final ascent preparations and be brought soup and high energy food which will help power them up the mountain.

In the middle of the night a cup of steaming bed tea, followed by breakfast is brought to the tents.  Slowly the team emerge dressed in summit clothing, helmets and double boots with ice axes, crampons and harnesses stowed away in backpacks.  Water and packed lunches are added to the supplies and the group turn towards the summit.  A slow dark scramble takes the team to crampon point and then further to the fixed ropes.

 

As ascenders scrape up the ropes and ice axes pound into the ice the slow ascent continues in the first light of dawn.  Edging along the summit ridge, passing a large Korean group along the way, brief summit photos and whoops of joy escape the summiting team members before the long ascent back to High Camp. Congratulations to James, Mark, Olly, Colin and Ant to reaching the summit.

 

A final night was spent in High Camp to regain strength before meeting Jane back in Chekkung the next day and slowly making our way back to Namche and finally Lukla via Phakding. A sad farewell party and some Sherpa dancing mark the end of the trip to the mountains. The next morning took the team back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu for some final shopping in Thamal, visits of the local sights and farewell dinners.

 

Congratulations to everyone in the team for an excellent trip, achieving your goals and pushing yourselves to new horizons.

 

Leading for Jagged Globe

www.jagged-globe.co.uk

 

 

Everest Region, Nepal - Gokyo / Parchermo

I arrived in Kathmandu exhausted after 2 night flights and a 12 hour layover at London Heathrow. With just a few hours to meet up with Tom, make final preparations and fit in a few hours sleep before flying to Lukla the next morning I had my work cut out for me.  Tom had been lucky enough to spend a few days in kathmandu acclimatising and getting over his jet lag after a long flight from New Zealand. Happily we landed in Lukla in one piece and made our way slowly up to Namche then looked towards the Gokyo Valley.



When we were in Namche we heard about the terrible crash of a Sita plane. The plane was his by a large bird just outside Kathmandu and crashed trying to return to the airport.  Everyone aboard the plane died. It was quite a shock especially as we were on that plane just 48 hours earlier. It brings home the danger of some of your actions.  As we were in Namche we were able to reassure the many friends and family members who contacted us to check we were ok.  Thank you to everyone for caring and our thoughts are with the families of those involved in the crash.  (For more info: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/seven-britons-confirmed-dead-in-kathmandu-plane-crash)

As Tom and I left the world of easy communication and the hustle and bustle of the EBC trail we turned our thoughts towards Gokyo. As Tom had never been to altitude before I was cautious about our speed of ascent especially as he struggled slightly between Lukla and Namche.  However, true to form Tom became stronger and stronger with every 100 metre of ascent until I was the one struggling to keep step with him.

I on the other hand replicatd my previous trip up the valley.  Last time I was heading towards Machermo, having walked in from Jiri and was feeling strong until I got to Dole.  For the next week I was inflicted with a very upset stomach and only just managed to crawl into the Machermo Rescue Post to get medical attention.  This time a respiratory tract infection hit me in Namche (I beleive it was picked up from a client on my previous Kilimanjaro trip).  By the time we reached Machermo I was unable to talk - luckily the doctor there checked me out and prescribed the right medication for me.

We continued on to the beautiful settlement of Gokyo and while I took a rest day and nursed my aching throat and lungs Tom made his way up Gokyo Ri for some fantastic views of the region.  The next day we headed over the Renjo La - the pass that provides the best views in the area  thanks to its distance from Everest.  We made it to Thame that afternoon which is a long day but well worth the effort.

In Thame we met our camp crew who were to head up the valley towards the Thashi Lapsa with us.  The lack of tea houses up the valley meant a camp crew was indispensable in our attempt to climb Parchermo Peak. We were very well treated by the crew with the usual camping luxuries of tea in bed, hot washing water and a whole array of different foods served up as often as we could possibly desire.

After a night at Thyongbo we headed up to camp at Ngole. Due to rockfall and a landslide we were unable to camp at the expected 5100m and camped 300m lower leaving a longer day to come.  Up to this point we had the luxury of a train of Dzo (hybrid Yak/Cattle) to carry our climbing and camping equipment but they could not negotiate the steep scree slopes of the mountain and from here we carried our own kit - with the help of a few porters.

On reaching 5100m we came to a steep icy section which the porters were not happy about crossing.  With the help of a rope this could be negotiated but Tom, Pemba and I decided to walk further up the mountain to assess the conditions higher up.  The camp site was on the pass and there were some very steep sections which the porters would find difficult and a lot of rockfall. All the factors were taken into consideration and it was decided that this mountain would not be climbed today.  We will come back and attempt it another time under differ circumstances, with helmets and in better conditions.








 The trip up the valley was not a waste as the remoteness of this area is so far removed from the busy Khumbu valley, we didn't see a single other westerner which we were up there and the views were breathtaking.






A rapid descent back to Lukla had us waiting to fly out within a couple of days. By some extraordinary turn of events the tea house we were staying in had a helicopter waiting to return to Kathmandu empty.  We were lucky enough to fill the empty seats at no additional cost and thus avoided another plane ride from Lukla airport whilst benefiting from fantastic views all the way.

A few days in Kathmandu and Tom will start making his way back to Christchurch, NZ while I turn my thoughts back to the Khumbu and another flight to Lukla.    

Everest Base Camp, Nepal

Arriving at the airport three and a half hours before the departure of our flight to Delhi I expected to have a little time before the rest of the group arrived.  To my surprise more than half of them were already there and waiting with Richard explaining what would happen and how the trek would come together.  Richard had been to Nepal before.  After a disappointing evacuation from Namche last October, he was back with the determination to try again and was very effectively making sure everyone in the team was happy.

The rest of the group arrived and we flew without incident to Kathmandu via Delhi: A tiring but pleasant journey which brought us to the peaceful Summit hotel.  After a curry buffet everyone opted for an early night in preparation for the final flight of our outward journey.  This is always the most nerve racking flight of the trip.  The small plane, the risk of a bumpy flight, the exciting short runway with a cliff at the end and the question at the back of all our minds – will the skies be clear enough to fly?

Luck was on our side, everything ran smoothly for us and we were walking up the trail from Lukla by 10:30.  The heat of the day, a long journey only just behind us and getting used to trekking made the walk to Monjo feel slightly longer than it was but the impressive views, large mountains and anticipation of the next few weeks propelled the team up path to our first night in a tea house.

Ensuite bathrooms with hot showers: Are we in the right country?  The tea house was the lap of luxury and everyone was beginning to relax.  That was until the moths attacked.  Colin was thoughtfully reading with a head torch so that Stuart could sleep soundly next to him.  This well thought out strategy was excellent until his screams woke the entire team including Stewart.  Is this the same man we had nicknamed Bear Grills?

The incident deterred none of us and the next morning bright and early, we continued up the trail for a few days acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar.  This allowed time for visiting the local villages including the Hilary school and hospital, taking in the magnificent views of Everest, purchasing last minute hats and other essential items and enjoying civilised visits to the bakery where as many different varieties of cake as possible were consumed.  It was at this point that the team became aware of Simons rucksack.  It appeared to be surgically attached to his back and we began to question whether he was actually sleeping with it on.

Once fully acclimatised to 3400 metres, we carried on up the path to Debouche.  Happily for all of us Richard was still with us and now every step was new for him too so we felt we were stepping into a different phase of the trip.  There was considerable debate about the hill leading to the Tengboche monastery.  Is it bigger, harder, more impressive than the infamous Namche hill?  The jury is still out on that one and I suggest we go back and try again – for research purposes.  The clouds had come in by the time we reached the tea house in Debouche but that made the surprise in the morning even better.  There is no view from a bedroom window than Everest and Ama Dablan.

Our next stop was Dingboche where we spent another two nights acclimatising, wandered up the ridge for more magnificent views and attended a very interesting talk on high altitude acclimatisation run by the Himalayan Rescue Association based in Pheriche.  By this time, Lakpha our Sirdar, had already proved his weight in gold by provided snacks both on the trail just when they were needed and nuts and biscuits in the evenings to keep spirits high

Ready for the next stage of our journey, we made our way to Lobuche where we threw a surprise party for Simon who, as the youngest in the group, turned thirty.  There were balloons, songs and candles on a cake which Nwawang had carried all the way from Dingboche.  We stayed an extra day in Lobuche to help acclimatise and made the most of the extra time to visit the Italian research pyramid where we were lucky enough to receive a guided visit of the current experiments.

Finally the time had come and we trekked the remaining trail to Gorak Shep.  Anticipation mounted as we prepared for our Everest Base Camp Visit.  The route took us along a typically ‘Nepali flat’ trail (read undulating) to the Jagged Globe tents at the far end of base camp.  We were welcomed by Adam the base camp manager and chef who made us feel very welcome and even treated us to apple and blackberry crumble with cream – after filing us with a magnificent main course. 

All the Jagged Globe climbers were on the mountain assessing the weather for a possible summit bid when we arrived but Richard was lucky enough to speak to Adele Pennington via radio.  A content group made their way back to Gorak Shep in a light snow shower which for many rounded off the day perfectly.  Congratulations to the entire team for making it to Everest Base Camp, it was well deserved.

The next morning a few intrepid trekkers (Stewart, Colin, Jim and Andrea) pushed for the summit of Kala Pattar while the rest started making their way back down to thicker air and warmer climates.  Those that summited were rewarded with clear views of Everest and the surrounding mountains, with Pumori becoming a favourite among the group.  Well done to everyone who climbed Kala Pattar.

The team met up in Pheriche that evening and thoughts began to turn towards Kathmandu and home.  A few more days trekking down found us in Lukla for an exciting last night party with the Sherpas.  Not only did they work incredibly hard throughout the trip but they also out danced each and every one of us.  The next morning we flew back to Kathmandu without delay and finally, as we landed Simon managed to extract himself from his rucksack.  The team spent a few days relaxing by the pool and visiting the local sights before flying back to the UK.

An excellent trip, congratulations to all for achieving your goals!

Leading for Jagged Globe

http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/

High Passes to Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal

The group began bonding as a team during their training weekend in Wales and became reunited at various points in their journey to Nepal.  Jos joined the British travellers in London, Graham and Kevin joined the party in Delhi and John S became reunited with everyone at the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu.  Everyone was tired and excited after the long journey so after some planning and preparation for an early departure the next day, we ate and crawled gratefully into bed.  The four am wakeup call brought us quickly back to reality and felt rather harsh but when we landed in Lukla later on that morning, it all seemed worth it.

Once we had met our Sirdar Lakpa and his faithful assistant Nima, we were ready to see if we could catch up with the porters who had already disappeared round the corner and up the hill.  The two days that took us up to Namche were exciting, as we got used to day to day life on the move, eating and sleeping in tea houses, the ever more impressive views of increasingly imposing mountains and the gentle swing of the eight suspension bridges between Lukla and Namche.  By the end of the trip Kevin was able to cross these bridges alone and with a smile on his face – a huge achievement, well done!

The next few days were spent resting and acclimatising both in Namche and then in Thame.  Namche provided the team with time to visit the Everest View Hotel, take tea and admire the clouds that were hiding Everest and almost every other mountain in the valley.  The acclimatisation walk from Thame took us up the ridge to a local monastery where the team was lucky enough to see a Puja.

The Bhote valley is remote and beautiful with few trekkers or tea houses and is the ideal introduction to the magnificent landscape and culture of the area.  With each step, more altitude was gained and the clouds were slowly being left behind us.  The final night in the valley was spent camping just below the Renjo La and with one last acclimatisation trek behind them the team was ready to cross the pass.  At a height of 5388m the Renjo La would take us into Gokyo valley and would be the toughest day yet.  The pain of reaching this height was quickly forgotten however as the most spectacular views you can imagine appeared framed with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, marking the top of the pass.  There were tears of joy as emotions overcame individuals.

With a week’s experience living in the Everest region the group was getting used to the local toilets; from western style flushing systems and self-flushing squat loos to the long drop.  Imagine our surprise then, when John McG came into the tea house in Gokyo with a sheepish grimace on his face and a story which had us sliding off our chairs.  He had been spending some time in the outside loo and as he stood up he heard ‘clunk, splash’.  The dismay he must have felt when he realised that his brand new iPhone had gone sailing into the hole below him is indescribable.  Back in his room he scanned his belongings for useful equipment to perform a rescue operation.  After a few false starts John McG and his faithful assistant Sara were peering into a dark hole.  John, wearing his spare gloves and with gaiters strapped to his arms for protection, leaned in and finally retrieved his phone with Sara’s walking poles.  To everyone’s surprise, after a good wash, the phone worked and all the photos from the trip were safe.  The gloves and gaiters on the other hand didn’t make it further than Gokyo.

The following day a rescue operation of a slightly different nature was required and the whole group was very disappointed to see John S flying back to Kathmandu in a helicopter as a medical emergency.  The good news is that he made it back safely, he is doing well, and he got some fantastic views from the Renjo La, fifth lake and Gokyo Ri before he left us.  The group name ‘All sixes and sevens’ became even more relevant now and everyone felt the hole John's departure left.

The trek over Cho La was the most challenging of all and as the team prepared mentally whilst relaxing in a luxury tea house in Dragnag, large snowflakes began to fall.  Too much snow and the Cho La becomes impassable – meaning a three day trek around the bottom of the valley to reach the same point.  The next morning at 5am the snow had stopped and small pockets of clear sky could be seen.  Six hours later the team crawled over the last scramble to the top of the pass.  Despite the lack of views, team moral could not be squashed and with memories of the views from the Renjo La clearly etched in memories and in cameras to keep them going; the climb down to Dzongla began.

Now, fully acclimatised and with the hardest part of the trek behind us, we were feeling happy, strong and like we could take on the world.  We decided to settle for Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar. The views from the top brought Everest closer than before and looking down on the Khumbu Icefall gave everyone time to stop and think.  With mountains towering above in every direction, it was easy to forget that we were indeed standing at 5545m.  

Everest Base Camp was emotional surprise for everyone and hugely enjoyed by all.  A visit to the beginning of the icefall gave the team an opportunity to pose in the’All sixes and sevens’ T-shorts and spare a thought for John S.  Back at the Jagged Globe Everest team camp, we were welcomed by expedition leader David Hamilton and Gavin, Base Camp Manager / Chef who cooked us an incredible spread for lunch.

Turning around in a homeward direction was difficult for everyone as a feeling that the good times were coming to an end began to creep over the team.  However, new sights and experiences were still around and each day was as exciting as the last.  Pangboche provided the views of Ama Dablam that we had been waiting for and everyone took photos for John S.  In Namche coffee and cakes were consumed by the majority of the group – those that could drag themselves away from the shopping and internet cafes.

Finally, our last stop in the hills: Lukla.  Here we said goodbye to our porters, Lakpa and Nima.  A party in the lodge gave us the opportunity to thank them for all their hard work – without them, this once in a lifetime experience would not be possible.  And then thoughts turned to home as we flew back to Kathmandu, transformed ourselves back into ‘normal’ human beings and celebrated in style in the big city.

An enjoyable and successful trip - congratulations to all!

Leading for Jagged Globe
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/