Stok Kangri, India

We met at the airport and identified each other thanks to the distinctive red Jagged Globe bags.  Excitement levels were high and anticipation great as we boarded the plane for Delhi.  Our first task was identifying our missing person.  Ian had become delayed during his transfer from Scotland but once located, the team was complete and everyone was ready to take on the challenge of the next seventeen days.

After recovering in Delhi for a day we flew to Leh.  The views from the flight were breath taking and only helped to increase the sense of excitement that everyone was feeling.  With a few days in Leh, the group which was fast becoming a team, took to the task of acclimatising to the new altitude of 3350m.  With local markets to visit, last minute supplies to stock up on and monasteries to visit, everyone was kept busy.

Finally, six days into the trip, the trek began.  The weather was on our side, as the torrential rains that we had been experiencing since our arrival in Leh cleared and the sun came out.  The first two days were beautiful providing fantastic views and an idea of what we could expect over the next 10 days.  Arid landscapes, mountains as far as the eye could see in every direction and a feeling of being the only people in the world at that time, made the walking even more special.

As we arrived at camp at the end of day two, everyone was breathless.  Not from the altitude but due to the pure beauty of the campsite.  Situated at a convergence of two rivers and raised slightly to provide views of mountain ranges in three directions, the general consensus was that life couldn't get much better.  Those with a little energy to spare joined a local boy of about ten years old in a game of football with a half inflated ball.  Luckily the fantastic spread which is known as dinner called us away before anyone had to admit to defeat by the altitude.

A long walk up across the Shang Pu provided a good work out to 4960m.  The views and sense of achievement at reaching the pass soon swept any memory of the climb out of our minds as we looked down towards the next valley.  When the team eventually reached the campsite after a long hard day of walking, it was the 360^o views rather than the long trek which had everyone breathless. Margaret, never far from one of her cameras, made it known that she had taken shots from the toilet tent as there is nothing better than a loo with a view.

After breakfast outside, taking in the views for the final time, the team headed towards the Matho La where we rewarded with our first clear sight of Stok Kangri.  Everyone stopped in their tracks.  It looked big.  Excitement bubbled below the surface as everyone was reminded that we were here to climb that beautiful and awe inspiring mountain.

Finally we arrived at a bustling base camp and spent a few additional days exploring the area, acclimatizing to the new height of 4900m and preparing for summit day.  With some minor medical problems to overcome, this time was much needed by some.  Others took the opportunity to remind themselves that patience and respect are essential in the mountains.

Summit day started at midnight the team set off in the silent darkness towards the mountain.  With the first few hours of the climb walked over the previous days, we were covering familiar ground but as we reached the glacier, anticipation grew.  Zoe turned round at this point, still suffering from a cold and some sickness and headed back to camp having made an excellent effort.  As the climb continued towards the ridge, others wondered if they too should have turned back.  

As the ridge was reached and the sun rose, the views swept some of the pain out of the climb the climbers minds.  The ridge was steep and with loose rocks and steep scree, there was some short roping to make sure that everyone made the summit successfully.  And they did.  As the prayer flags fluttered in the light wind, the sky was clear and the views endless.  The team rested for 40 minutes before making the return journey to camp.

And all this time, Biku was in our minds.  He left camp a little ahead of us and travelled with a determination I have seldom seen.  We passed him just below the summit as Margaret, Chris, Ian, James, Norbu and I made our way back to camp.  Biku was on the mountain longer than anyone else and with Temba to guide and support him, he didn’t waver and didn’t give up.  Biku returned to camp to a standing ovation from the rest of the team.

After much celebrating and smiles all round and a quick game of cricket at Base Camp, we returned to Leh and then Delhi where we found the energy to celebrate a little more.  Finally, goodbyes were said as Biku headed south to visit his family, Margaret disappeared on a camel and the rest of the team made their way back to the UK.

An enjoyable and successful trip - congratulations to all!




Leading for Jagged Globe
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