Tuesday 6 November 2012

Everest Base Camp and Island Peak

Waiting at the busy arrivals area of Kathmandu International airport with a Jagged Globe sign larger than my head, I peered around looking for the distinctive red kit bags that would identify my team when they finally made their way out in the heat of Nepal.  Finally I saw them, counting their arrival by the number of bulging red bags.  7, 8, 9, 10... Wait a minute, I'm sure I'm only looking for 9 bags - 9 clients.
 
We quickly establish that my entire team have made it safely to Kathmandu and the tenth arrival is Ron - who will be joining Adele on the Kyajo Ri Trip.  A short stay at the Summit hotel into which we pack in a trip briefing, introductions, kit check, medical updates, dinner and a very short sleep before pilling onto a wonderfully on-time flight to Lukla.
 
Suddenly we are surrounded by mountains, porters, yaks and big pots of lemon tea.  The culture shock is what we came here for, along with the breathtaking views and  thrill of a climb - the excitement is bubbling just under the surface.  The walk to Namche takes just two days and there are so many assaults on the sense and sights to take in along the way that the team are pleased they will have the opportunity to pass this way on the return journey to make the most of what they are missing first time around.
 
Our acclimatisation time in Namche is not wasted and during our trip to the Everest View hotel we are rewarded with a clear panorama stretching as far as the eye can see - enjoyed with tea and cake.  A very civilised way to break us into the mountain environment.  During our stay in Namche, Ant makes it clear to us that he has brought a very special gift with him.  I am the first to receive the gift but over the next two weeks it makes its way around the team and few were able to refuse the fresh head cold which he brought with him directly from the UK.
Another two days of trekking took us above the tree line to our next acclimatisation test at Dingboche.  A beautiful bustling village with Mamas bakery to abate James unquenchable appetite, an informative talk on altitude at the local Medical centre and a short but tough acclimatisation walk onto the ridge between Dinboche and Pheriche.
 
Feeling good at 4400m we slowly climb to Gorak Shep. With 3 days to ascend 800m we have plenty of time to enjoy the environment, views, food, company and make sure we arrive feeling as fresh as we can at 5200m.  Ant's gift is still being given and received around the team but it is Ant himself who is making the most of the cold he is sharing with us.  However, how can you not smile when you are living in a cold mountain environment surrounded by views that take away any breath you may be able to take at high altitude.
 
Finally we are here, we trek slowly to Base Camp where one remaining Japanese team are preparing a final assault of the season on Everest.  The walk in along the glacier does not contain much up - just 150m - but it is Nepali flat all the way and the terrain is tough going.  However, the team arrives with smiles on the faces: for some this has been a dream for many years.  Congratulations to everyone in the team for making it to Everest Base Camp.
 
The next morning we make an early start in the cold air to climb Kala Pattar.  About half way up the path becomes less steep and we stop to breath and admire the first views of Everest that we have seen for a few days. As the route steepens again, the pace slows and the summit becomes nearer. A short scramble at high altitude brings the team to a small area covered in prayer flags.  Layers of clothing, hats and gloves are pulled out of bags as the wind cuts through the air, cameras follow shortly after and smiles are clear on every face that is admiring the view.  Well done to Pete, James, Olly, Mark, Ant, Colin and Jane for reaching the summit.
 
 
Objectives in this area complete the team splits in two with some making their way via Pheriche around the valley floor to Chekkung and James, Olly, Mark, Colin and Jane battle over the Kongma La.  The steep scree slopes and the altitude make the going tough but arriving at the top of the pass brings different views and much rejoicing. The descent to Chekkung is long, gentle and beautiful and Jane achieved things she never thought possible.  Well done Jane!
 
Arriving in Chekkung at the top of the Imje Valley, the whole team met up again briefly.  Here we would leave Jane who has achieved everything she set out to do, and who will wait for us to return from the mountain in the relative comfort of a local Lodge. The next morning we make our way to Base Camp, a secluded camp site well before the main Base Camp of Island Peak and with no one else in sight.  The team really feels like they are going to climb a mountain now and the anticipation creeps up.
 
The next morning we sadly say goodbye to Alan and Mary-Kate and make our way to High Camp.  This is a cold windy campsite at 5600m and the team are pleased to be ale to retreat into their tents early to make final ascent preparations and be brought soup and high energy food which will help power them up the mountain.

In the middle of the night a cup of steaming bed tea, followed by breakfast is brought to the tents.  Slowly the team emerge dressed in summit clothing, helmets and double boots with ice axes, crampons and harnesses stowed away in backpacks.  Water and packed lunches are added to the supplies and the group turn towards the summit.  A slow dark scramble takes the team to crampon point and then further to the fixed ropes.
 
As ascenders scrape up the ropes and ice axes pound into the ice the slow ascent continues in the first light of dawn.  Edging along the summit ridge, passing a large Korean group along the way, brief summit photos and whoops of joy escape the summiting team members before the long ascent back to High Camp. Congratulations to James, Mark, Olly, Colin and Ant to reaching the summit.
 
A final night was spent in High Camp to regain strength before meeting Jane back in Chekkung the next day and slowly making our way back to Namche and finally Lukla via Phakding. A sad farewell party and some Sherpa dancing mark the end of the trip to the mountains. The next morning took the team back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu for some final shopping in Thamal, visits of the local sights and farewell dinners.
 
Congratulations to everyone in the team for an excellent trip, achieving your goals and pushing yourselves to new horizons.
 
Leading for Jagged Globe