Friday, 1 June 2012

Everest Base Camp, Nepal


Arriving at the airport three and a half hours before the departure of our flight to Delhi I expected to have a little time before the rest of the group arrived.  To my surprise more than half of them were already there and waiting with Richard explaining what would happen and how the trek would come together.  Richard had been to Nepal before.  After a disappointing evacuation from Namche last October, he was back with the determination to try again and was very effectively making sure everyone in the team was happy.

The rest of the group arrived and we flew without incident to Kathmandu via Delhi: A tiring but pleasant journey which brought us to the peaceful Summit hotel.  After a curry buffet everyone opted for an early night in preparation for the final flight of our outward journey.  This is always the most nerve racking flight of the trip.  The small plane, the risk of a bumpy flight, the exciting short runway with a cliff at the end and the question at the back of all our minds – will the skies be clear enough to fly?

Luck was on our side, everything ran smoothly for us and we were walking up the trail from Lukla by 10:30.  The heat of the day, a long journey only just behind us and getting used to trekking made the walk to Monjo feel slightly longer than it was but the impressive views, large mountains and anticipation of the next few weeks propelled the team up path to our first night in a tea house.

Ensuite bathrooms with hot showers: Are we in the right country?  The tea house was the lap of luxury and everyone was beginning to relax.  That was until the moths attacked.  Colin was thoughtfully reading with a head torch so that Stuart could sleep soundly next to him.  This well thought out strategy was excellent until his screams woke the entire team including Stewart.  Is this the same man we had nicknamed Bear Grills?

The incident deterred none of us and the next morning bright and early, we continued up the trail for a few days acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar.  This allowed time for visiting the local villages including the Hilary school and hospital, taking in the magnificent views of Everest, purchasing last minute hats and other essential items and enjoying civilised visits to the bakery where as many different varieties of cake as possible were consumed.  It was at this point that the team became aware of Simons rucksack.  It appeared to be surgically attached to his back and we began to question whether he was actually sleeping with it on.

Once fully acclimatised to 3400 metres, we carried on up the path to Debouche.  Happily for all of us Richard was still with us and now every step was new for him too so we felt we were stepping into a different phase of the trip.  There was considerable debate about the hill leading to the Tengboche monastery.  Is it bigger, harder, more impressive than the infamous Namche hill?  The jury is still out on that one and I suggest we go back and try again – for research purposes.  The clouds had come in by the time we reached the tea house in Debouche but that made the surprise in the morning even better.  There is no view from a bedroom window than Everest and Ama Dablan.

Our next stop was Dingboche where we spent another two nights acclimatising, wandered up the ridge for more magnificent views and attended a very interesting talk on high altitude acclimatisation run by the Himalayan Rescue Association based in Pheriche.  By this time, Lakpha our Sirdar, had already proved his weight in gold by provided snacks both on the trail just when they were needed and nuts and biscuits in the evenings to keep spirits high

Ready for the next stage of our journey, we made our way to Lobuche where we threw a surprise party for Simon who, as the youngest in the group, turned thirty.  There were balloons, songs and candles on a cake which Nwawang had carried all the way from Dingboche.  We stayed an extra day in Lobuche to help acclimatise and made the most of the extra time to visit the Italian research pyramid where we were lucky enough to receive a guided visit of the current experiments.



Finally the time had come and we trekked the remaining trail to Gorak Shep.  Anticipation mounted as we prepared for our Everest Base Camp Visit.  The route took us along a typically ‘Nepali flat’ trail (read undulating) to the Jagged Globe tents at the far end of base camp.  We were welcomed by Adam the base camp manager and chef who made us feel very welcome and even treated us to apple and blackberry crumble with cream – after filing us with a magnificent main course. 

All the Jagged Globe climbers were on the mountain assessing the weather for a possible summit bid when we arrived but Richard was lucky enough to speak to Adele Pennington via radio.  A content group made their way back to Gorak Shep in a light snow shower which for many rounded off the day perfectly.  Congratulations to the entire team for making it to Everest Base Camp, it was well deserved.

The next morning a few intrepid trekkers (Stewart, Colin, Jim and Andrea) pushed for the summit of Kala Pattar while the rest started making their way back down to thicker air and warmer climates.  Those that summited were rewarded with clear views of Everest and the surrounding mountains, with Pumori becoming a favourite among the group.  Well done to everyone who climbed Kala Pattar.




The team met up in Pheriche that evening and thoughts began to turn towards Kathmandu and home.  A few more days trekking down found us in Lukla for an exciting last night party with the Sherpas.  Not only did they work incredibly hard throughout the trip but they also out danced each and every one of us.  The next morning we flew back to Kathmandu without delay and finally, as we landed Simon managed to extract himself from his rucksack.  The team spent a few days relaxing by the pool and visiting the local sights before flying back to the UK.

An excellent trip, congratulations to all for achieving your goals!

Leading for Jagged Globe

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