Southern Peru - Ausangate Trek

Inveralmond Community High School Gym, Saturday 16th June, we come together as a team for the first time to embark on our month long expedition to Southern Peru. The day is packed with last minute personal kit checks; distribution of group kit into bulging rucksacks; security briefings; first aid briefings; country briefings; distribution of roles and anything else we can fit into the small window of time we have before jumping on our flight at Edinburgh airport.

Almost 24 hours later, arriving in Lima the high rise buildings, misty skies, and light drizzle remind us reassuringly of home and the team is able to embark on making preparations to leave the security of the big city in relative relaxation.  There is much to do; starting with a meeting with the in country agent and the money man, the purchase of a phone and travel arrangements get sandwiched in the middle and a trip put for pizza to round off the first day in this exciting new country.

Our first bus experience takes us south to Paracas to visit the Islas Ballestas, otherwise known as poor mans Galapagos. A swift boat trip around the island, with birds and guano everywhere, we make it back to shore, pleased that Conor has done his security job properly (check the sea worthiness and safety of the boat).

With Jack becoming team leader, we make it safely onto an overnight bus that takes us further south and we begin our slow ascent to high altitude. Arequipa, the white city shines in the sunlight with the volcano El Misti sitting perfectly on the horizon. This is a short stop but provides a little time for an acclimatisation trek - allowing us to take our first step towards tolerating the heat and the diminishing amounts of oxygen in the the air.

Next we head towards Puno, the capital of Folklore situated on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. As we visit Urus, one the floating reed islands, the team learns more in an hour of observing this fascinating culture than they could ever dream of by reading a text book.

After Puno we turn towards Cusco, our base for the remaining 2 1/2 weeks of this journey. Having felt the effects of the lower levels of oxygen in the air at Puno, Cusco is warmer and lower.  Our acclimatisation time is spent on day treks from the city taking in the fascinating archeological sites of the surrounding area and honing our fitness for 'the big one'.

 

Finally we embark on the project phase of the expedition. Our goal: to help a local community build a medical centre. Alfredo, a native from the village of Chillipower, guides us for 7 hours over a pass to the community where we will spend the next 5 days.  With Sebastian the project manager guiding us, supported by team leaders Blair, Rachel and Kieran the days are spent splitting bamboo, nailing it to the ceiling and windows, collecting woods and watching with fascination the experts cover our work with plaster at a speed we could only dream of. 

Back in Cusco, we have a days rest which we spend white water rafting before turning our minds to the trek.  Alfredo is back to help our guide Antonio for 7 days, no showers, small tents in a remote mountain area.  We are to trek around Ausangate (6380m), the highest mountain in the area over passes of up to 5100m. A challenging trek with many, many tears but even more rewards. The unusual amounts of snow and high winds make the trek even more challenging but who can forget eating a fully cooked lunch at 4900m with a beautifully prepared table in the snow?  And then hot springs in the snow?

Due to the strength of the team, a rest day near the end allowed those with the inclination to do so, to sample a Pacha Manka. This is a local method of cooking meat in the ground and we bought an alpaca for the purpose.  Although Devon, our vegetarian found this an especially difficult event to witness, it was a very special occasion.

Having tasted Ceviche, Alpaca, Lomo Saltado, local trout and many different varieties of potatoes, there remained the final Peruvian delicacy to try before our departure.  Half the team sat at the table around the plates of guinea pig knowing that those who had snuck off to McDonalds were missing out on a once in a life time experience.

With the month having disappeared in the blink of the eye, Lima is unchanged and the misty drizzle prepared us for the long fight back to Scotland via Amsterdam.  


Leading for World Challenge
http://www.world-challenge.co.uk/

Everest Base Camp, Nepal

Arriving at the airport three and a half hours before the departure of our flight to Delhi I expected to have a little time before the rest of the group arrived.  To my surprise more than half of them were already there and waiting with Richard explaining what would happen and how the trek would come together.  Richard had been to Nepal before.  After a disappointing evacuation from Namche last October, he was back with the determination to try again and was very effectively making sure everyone in the team was happy.

The rest of the group arrived and we flew without incident to Kathmandu via Delhi: A tiring but pleasant journey which brought us to the peaceful Summit hotel.  After a curry buffet everyone opted for an early night in preparation for the final flight of our outward journey.  This is always the most nerve racking flight of the trip.  The small plane, the risk of a bumpy flight, the exciting short runway with a cliff at the end and the question at the back of all our minds – will the skies be clear enough to fly?

Luck was on our side, everything ran smoothly for us and we were walking up the trail from Lukla by 10:30.  The heat of the day, a long journey only just behind us and getting used to trekking made the walk to Monjo feel slightly longer than it was but the impressive views, large mountains and anticipation of the next few weeks propelled the team up path to our first night in a tea house.

Ensuite bathrooms with hot showers: Are we in the right country?  The tea house was the lap of luxury and everyone was beginning to relax.  That was until the moths attacked.  Colin was thoughtfully reading with a head torch so that Stuart could sleep soundly next to him.  This well thought out strategy was excellent until his screams woke the entire team including Stewart.  Is this the same man we had nicknamed Bear Grills?

The incident deterred none of us and the next morning bright and early, we continued up the trail for a few days acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar.  This allowed time for visiting the local villages including the Hilary school and hospital, taking in the magnificent views of Everest, purchasing last minute hats and other essential items and enjoying civilised visits to the bakery where as many different varieties of cake as possible were consumed.  It was at this point that the team became aware of Simons rucksack.  It appeared to be surgically attached to his back and we began to question whether he was actually sleeping with it on.

Once fully acclimatised to 3400 metres, we carried on up the path to Debouche.  Happily for all of us Richard was still with us and now every step was new for him too so we felt we were stepping into a different phase of the trip.  There was considerable debate about the hill leading to the Tengboche monastery.  Is it bigger, harder, more impressive than the infamous Namche hill?  The jury is still out on that one and I suggest we go back and try again – for research purposes.  The clouds had come in by the time we reached the tea house in Debouche but that made the surprise in the morning even better.  There is no view from a bedroom window than Everest and Ama Dablan.

Our next stop was Dingboche where we spent another two nights acclimatising, wandered up the ridge for more magnificent views and attended a very interesting talk on high altitude acclimatisation run by the Himalayan Rescue Association based in Pheriche.  By this time, Lakpha our Sirdar, had already proved his weight in gold by provided snacks both on the trail just when they were needed and nuts and biscuits in the evenings to keep spirits high

Ready for the next stage of our journey, we made our way to Lobuche where we threw a surprise party for Simon who, as the youngest in the group, turned thirty.  There were balloons, songs and candles on a cake which Nwawang had carried all the way from Dingboche.  We stayed an extra day in Lobuche to help acclimatise and made the most of the extra time to visit the Italian research pyramid where we were lucky enough to receive a guided visit of the current experiments.

Finally the time had come and we trekked the remaining trail to Gorak Shep.  Anticipation mounted as we prepared for our Everest Base Camp Visit.  The route took us along a typically ‘Nepali flat’ trail (read undulating) to the Jagged Globe tents at the far end of base camp.  We were welcomed by Adam the base camp manager and chef who made us feel very welcome and even treated us to apple and blackberry crumble with cream – after filing us with a magnificent main course. 

All the Jagged Globe climbers were on the mountain assessing the weather for a possible summit bid when we arrived but Richard was lucky enough to speak to Adele Pennington via radio.  A content group made their way back to Gorak Shep in a light snow shower which for many rounded off the day perfectly.  Congratulations to the entire team for making it to Everest Base Camp, it was well deserved.

The next morning a few intrepid trekkers (Stewart, Colin, Jim and Andrea) pushed for the summit of Kala Pattar while the rest started making their way back down to thicker air and warmer climates.  Those that summited were rewarded with clear views of Everest and the surrounding mountains, with Pumori becoming a favourite among the group.  Well done to everyone who climbed Kala Pattar.

The team met up in Pheriche that evening and thoughts began to turn towards Kathmandu and home.  A few more days trekking down found us in Lukla for an exciting last night party with the Sherpas.  Not only did they work incredibly hard throughout the trip but they also out danced each and every one of us.  The next morning we flew back to Kathmandu without delay and finally, as we landed Simon managed to extract himself from his rucksack.  The team spent a few days relaxing by the pool and visiting the local sights before flying back to the UK.

An excellent trip, congratulations to all for achieving your goals!

Leading for Jagged Globe

http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/

IML WInter Training, France

Arriving in at Geneva airport I met up with fellow mountain lovers and we made our way together to the Auberge Nordique in Le Grand Bornand.  We were looking forward to a week of snow shoeing and avalanche training as part of our Winter International Mountain Leader Training.

‘The Union of International Mountain Leader Associations (UIMLA) was created to encourage the development of common standards for professional mountain leaders throughout Europe and worldwide.  It was drawn up in recognition of the growing requirement for tour guides to work in areas where the full alpine climbing and teaching skills of a Mountain Guide are not needed but where skilled mountain leadership is necessary for clients to enjoy journeys through remote mountain areas in safety and confidence.' (www.baiml.org/)

The snow was deep and soft making trail breaking hard work, but the excitement of wandering around the rolling Nordic terrain for a week meant that none of  that mattered.  We learnt to use avalanche transceivers, probes and shovels proficiently, dug snow pits to study the layers of snow, made a shovel up, practiced emergency rope work, talked about the environment and enjoyed the pleasure of being in the mountains.

What a fantastic week!

Course run by Plas y Brenin

http://www.pyb.co.uk/

Grand Canyon, USA

After a lot of hustle and bustle at Edinburgh airport, the entire group managed to make it onto the plane for a long flight to the USA.  Excitement rippled through the team and even after many hours of travel, some were unable to sleep when we arrived, slightly bedraggled at the hotel in Phoenix.

Despite the lack of sleep we were on our way early the next morning towards Sedona where a short preparation trek got us ready for the descent into the Grand Canyon the next day. At the top of the Canyon, preparations took place; water bottles checked, snacks double checked, boots tightened and rucksacks adjusted.  The anticipation rose as the group readied themselves for the challenge they had set themselves.

While the rest of the team trekked through the heat of the day towards the village of Havasupai (People of the blue-green water), I was lucky enough to see the views from above as I made a speedy descent by helicopter.  I rejoined the team at base camp, a few miles further down the canyon.

Emotions ran high for all the participants as the beauty of the walks, the challenges of descent and memories of the reason they were there hit home.  The trek took place to raise funds for Marie Curie Cancer Care and whether the participants had been directly affected by the illness or not, it was close to everyone’s heart.

Climbing out of the Canyon on the final day was a real challenge with the sun beating down and a climb of about 300m.  Everyone was delighted to reach the rim.  Some wondering why they didn’t take up the offer of a horse as the equestrians gracefully appeared over the rim with not a drop of sweat among them.

A final dash for Las Vegas and after a well earned wash and change of cloths the team was treated to a celebration meal at Hard Rock Café.  Then there were the bars, the casinos and the rest of the night ahead of us…

Well done to all; it was a real challenge for each and everyone, in very different ways.

Leading for Global Adventure Challenges

http://www.globaladventurechallenges.com/

Stok Kangri, India

We met at the airport and identified each other thanks to the distinctive red Jagged Globe bags.  Excitement levels were high and anticipation great as we boarded the plane for Delhi.  Our first task was identifying our missing person.  Ian had become delayed during his transfer from Scotland but once located, the team was complete and everyone was ready to take on the challenge of the next seventeen days.

After recovering in Delhi for a day we flew to Leh.  The views from the flight were breath taking and only helped to increase the sense of excitement that everyone was feeling.  With a few days in Leh, the group which was fast becoming a team, took to the task of acclimatising to the new altitude of 3350m.  With local markets to visit, last minute supplies to stock up on and monasteries to visit, everyone was kept busy.

Finally, six days into the trip, the trek began.  The weather was on our side, as the torrential rains that we had been experiencing since our arrival in Leh cleared and the sun came out.  The first two days were beautiful providing fantastic views and an idea of what we could expect over the next 10 days.  Arid landscapes, mountains as far as the eye could see in every direction and a feeling of being the only people in the world at that time, made the walking even more special.

As we arrived at camp at the end of day two, everyone was breathless.  Not from the altitude but due to the pure beauty of the campsite.  Situated at a convergence of two rivers and raised slightly to provide views of mountain ranges in three directions, the general consensus was that life couldn't get much better.  Those with a little energy to spare joined a local boy of about ten years old in a game of football with a half inflated ball.  Luckily the fantastic spread which is known as dinner called us away before anyone had to admit to defeat by the altitude.

A long walk up across the Shang Pu provided a good work out to 4960m.  The views and sense of achievement at reaching the pass soon swept any memory of the climb out of our minds as we looked down towards the next valley.  When the team eventually reached the campsite after a long hard day of walking, it was the 360^o views rather than the long trek which had everyone breathless. Margaret, never far from one of her cameras, made it known that she had taken shots from the toilet tent as there is nothing better than a loo with a view.

After breakfast outside, taking in the views for the final time, the team headed towards the Matho La where we rewarded with our first clear sight of Stok Kangri.  Everyone stopped in their tracks.  It looked big.  Excitement bubbled below the surface as everyone was reminded that we were here to climb that beautiful and awe inspiring mountain.

Finally we arrived at a bustling base camp and spent a few additional days exploring the area, acclimatizing to the new height of 4900m and preparing for summit day.  With some minor medical problems to overcome, this time was much needed by some.  Others took the opportunity to remind themselves that patience and respect are essential in the mountains.

Summit day started at midnight the team set off in the silent darkness towards the mountain.  With the first few hours of the climb walked over the previous days, we were covering familiar ground but as we reached the glacier, anticipation grew.  Zoe turned round at this point, still suffering from a cold and some sickness and headed back to camp having made an excellent effort.  As the climb continued towards the ridge, others wondered if they too should have turned back.  

As the ridge was reached and the sun rose, the views swept some of the pain out of the climb the climbers minds.  The ridge was steep and with loose rocks and steep scree, there was some short roping to make sure that everyone made the summit successfully.  And they did.  As the prayer flags fluttered in the light wind, the sky was clear and the views endless.  The team rested for 40 minutes before making the return journey to camp.

And all this time, Biku was in our minds.  He left camp a little ahead of us and travelled with a determination I have seldom seen.  We passed him just below the summit as Margaret, Chris, Ian, James, Norbu and I made our way back to camp.  Biku was on the mountain longer than anyone else and with Temba to guide and support him, he didn’t waver and didn’t give up.  Biku returned to camp to a standing ovation from the rest of the team.

After much celebrating and smiles all round and a quick game of cricket at Base Camp, we returned to Leh and then Delhi where we found the energy to celebrate a little more.  Finally, goodbyes were said as Biku headed south to visit his family, Margaret disappeared on a camel and the rest of the team made their way back to the UK.

An enjoyable and successful trip - congratulations to all!




Leading for Jagged Globe
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/

Borneo Expedition

The team met at Heathrow on Friday 8th July for a very long flight to Borneo.  We knew we were almost there when we had a brief tour of Brunei whilst waiting for the final leg of the journey – a forty minute flight to Kota Kinabalu.  Relief, exhaustion and apprehension were all intermingled as our bus pulled up outside the Step-In Hostel which is to be our base in Kota Kinabalu for the month.  A night's sleep and we were all feeling much healthier and happier, so we headed out to Mamutik Island for a morning of jungle training and swimming in the South China Sea.

The next day, still acclimatising to the heat and aiming to drink four-five litres of water a day, we packed our large rucksacks with as much water proofing as possible and turned our attention to the rainforest.  Eight hours later, a bus ride and a 4X4 convoy deep into the jungle, we arrived at Long Pasia, the start of our four day trek.  It hadn’t rained for a week and we were quietly hoping that we may stay relatively dry.  The morning trek through the jungle was exciting as we saw new plants and insects, however the heat made the trekking hard work.  By three pm we were just a short way from the first night's camp and looking forward to resting in the sun and learning to put camp up as a team.  However, the skies opened and torrential rain saw everyone putting up  their tarps, hammocks and mosquito nets as effectively and efficiently as possible whilst trying to keep as much kit as possible as dry as can be.

The long period of dry weather followed by the rains brought out the leeches.  No one expected so many so fast and by the end of the trek only Miss McAlisdair had avoided being bitten!  Zac was one of the most delectable, modeling bites from head to toe.  The next day the leaches were still attacking as we trekked through the jungle, however this didn’t dampen team spirits and we continued to enjoy the environment and the camp sites.

After four days of jungle trekking, covered in mud, blood from the leaches and with a strange musty smell trailing behind us from our damp clothes, we arrived back in Long Pasia for a well deserved bucket wash and home cooked meal.  Looking cleaner and more relaxed, the team met at the village chief's house for a session of cultural sharing.  They showed us their local dances which we joined in.  The students showed off their musical talents with some extremely impressive and harmonious singing.

The team enjoyed their well deserved rest in Kota Kinabalu, before heading back into the jungle.  This time the destination was Kampung Kiau – the village that our local guide Henry comes from.

We treked to a camp deep in the jungle, swapped hammocks for tents and our nomadic lifestyle for a taste of living in one place in the jungle.  The group spent the rest of the first day and all of the next, getting involved in a variety of activities.  There were short treks for those that wanted some extra exercise, swimming in a pool by the camp to bring the temperature down and a huge river activity in an attempt to catch an interesting supplement to dinner – frogs, crabs and small fish.  Everyone tasted the delicacies however small the quantity!

The highlight of the camp stay was learning to use a parang (a small machete) to make items such as cups, bowls, spoons and blow pipes.  When the group learnt that the locals trek into the jungle with just a parang and a lighter, able to make and catch everything they need from the land, they were more than eager to begin to learn some of these skills.

Everyone took part in the night hike which provided the opportunity to see the jungle in a different setting.   Insects which fade into the background during the day were under the spotlight, and eyes became very focused as the group became more familiar with the jungle they were living in.

From the jungle the group headed straight to Mount Kinabalu.  This was to be the hardest point physically in the trek.  The first day took the group 6 km up the mountain gaining 1500m in height.  The first half was arduous and the steps which were often uneven and very high, almost held some of us back.  The next quarter was mentally challenging but the team pushed on and when the heavens opened and the winds picked up, the group put their heads down, pulled together and battled on to reach the hut they would sleeping for a few hours.

At 1:30am the alarm clock brought us back to reality;  A hut just below the summit of Mount Kinabalu and an exciting adventure ahead of us.  The atmosphere was tense as breakfast was forced down.  Everyone was excited and nervous, with questions flying around and hopes and fears shared.  Starting out in the dark we kept together and moved onto the roped section of the walk as a group.  Everyone was feeling the challenge of the mountain and a determination to reach the summit.

As the final hour of the climb drew near, small groups started to climb at their own pace, falling in with the rhythm of their bodies and their breathing at altitude.  As the summit photo was taken the group's thoughts turned to the few who were not standing on the top with them.  A special thought was spared for Mr Davies who was unable to come on the trip.

Climbing a mountain is only ever half the challenge and returning to the park entrance was no easier than the climb had been.  The steps were hard on everyone and both muscles and knees were screaming out by the time we returned to be reunited with a warm shower and a clean bed in the hostel at the bottom of the mountain.  However the spectacular views on the way down and feeling of accomplishment at such a great achievement soon worked their magic to help sooth away the pain.

Well done to all the summiteers!

Finally the school visited the Rainforest Discovery Centre where they completed the project phase of their trip.  They helped rebuild a path which had been washed away in recent flood.  The humidity in the forest made the work much harder but the reward of a swim in the pool and a visit to Sepilok orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre made it worth while.

Leading for Adventureworks
www.adventureworks.co.uk

High Passes to Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal

The group began bonding as a team during their training weekend in Wales and became reunited at various points in their journey to Nepal.  Jos joined the British travellers in London, Graham and Kevin joined the party in Delhi and John S became reunited with everyone at the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu.  Everyone was tired and excited after the long journey so after some planning and preparation for an early departure the next day, we ate and crawled gratefully into bed.  The four am wakeup call brought us quickly back to reality and felt rather harsh but when we landed in Lukla later on that morning, it all seemed worth it.

Once we had met our Sirdar Lakpa and his faithful assistant Nima, we were ready to see if we could catch up with the porters who had already disappeared round the corner and up the hill.  The two days that took us up to Namche were exciting, as we got used to day to day life on the move, eating and sleeping in tea houses, the ever more impressive views of increasingly imposing mountains and the gentle swing of the eight suspension bridges between Lukla and Namche.  By the end of the trip Kevin was able to cross these bridges alone and with a smile on his face – a huge achievement, well done!

The next few days were spent resting and acclimatising both in Namche and then in Thame.  Namche provided the team with time to visit the Everest View Hotel, take tea and admire the clouds that were hiding Everest and almost every other mountain in the valley.  The acclimatisation walk from Thame took us up the ridge to a local monastery where the team was lucky enough to see a Puja.

The Bhote valley is remote and beautiful with few trekkers or tea houses and is the ideal introduction to the magnificent landscape and culture of the area.  With each step, more altitude was gained and the clouds were slowly being left behind us.  The final night in the valley was spent camping just below the Renjo La and with one last acclimatisation trek behind them the team was ready to cross the pass.  At a height of 5388m the Renjo La would take us into Gokyo valley and would be the toughest day yet.  The pain of reaching this height was quickly forgotten however as the most spectacular views you can imagine appeared framed with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, marking the top of the pass.  There were tears of joy as emotions overcame individuals.

With a week’s experience living in the Everest region the group was getting used to the local toilets; from western style flushing systems and self-flushing squat loos to the long drop.  Imagine our surprise then, when John McG came into the tea house in Gokyo with a sheepish grimace on his face and a story which had us sliding off our chairs.  He had been spending some time in the outside loo and as he stood up he heard ‘clunk, splash’.  The dismay he must have felt when he realised that his brand new iPhone had gone sailing into the hole below him is indescribable.  Back in his room he scanned his belongings for useful equipment to perform a rescue operation.  After a few false starts John McG and his faithful assistant Sara were peering into a dark hole.  John, wearing his spare gloves and with gaiters strapped to his arms for protection, leaned in and finally retrieved his phone with Sara’s walking poles.  To everyone’s surprise, after a good wash, the phone worked and all the photos from the trip were safe.  The gloves and gaiters on the other hand didn’t make it further than Gokyo.

The following day a rescue operation of a slightly different nature was required and the whole group was very disappointed to see John S flying back to Kathmandu in a helicopter as a medical emergency.  The good news is that he made it back safely, he is doing well, and he got some fantastic views from the Renjo La, fifth lake and Gokyo Ri before he left us.  The group name ‘All sixes and sevens’ became even more relevant now and everyone felt the hole John's departure left.

The trek over Cho La was the most challenging of all and as the team prepared mentally whilst relaxing in a luxury tea house in Dragnag, large snowflakes began to fall.  Too much snow and the Cho La becomes impassable – meaning a three day trek around the bottom of the valley to reach the same point.  The next morning at 5am the snow had stopped and small pockets of clear sky could be seen.  Six hours later the team crawled over the last scramble to the top of the pass.  Despite the lack of views, team moral could not be squashed and with memories of the views from the Renjo La clearly etched in memories and in cameras to keep them going; the climb down to Dzongla began.

Now, fully acclimatised and with the hardest part of the trek behind us, we were feeling happy, strong and like we could take on the world.  We decided to settle for Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar. The views from the top brought Everest closer than before and looking down on the Khumbu Icefall gave everyone time to stop and think.  With mountains towering above in every direction, it was easy to forget that we were indeed standing at 5545m.  

Everest Base Camp was emotional surprise for everyone and hugely enjoyed by all.  A visit to the beginning of the icefall gave the team an opportunity to pose in the’All sixes and sevens’ T-shorts and spare a thought for John S.  Back at the Jagged Globe Everest team camp, we were welcomed by expedition leader David Hamilton and Gavin, Base Camp Manager / Chef who cooked us an incredible spread for lunch.

Turning around in a homeward direction was difficult for everyone as a feeling that the good times were coming to an end began to creep over the team.  However, new sights and experiences were still around and each day was as exciting as the last.  Pangboche provided the views of Ama Dablam that we had been waiting for and everyone took photos for John S.  In Namche coffee and cakes were consumed by the majority of the group – those that could drag themselves away from the shopping and internet cafes.

Finally, our last stop in the hills: Lukla.  Here we said goodbye to our porters, Lakpa and Nima.  A party in the lodge gave us the opportunity to thank them for all their hard work – without them, this once in a lifetime experience would not be possible.  And then thoughts turned to home as we flew back to Kathmandu, transformed ourselves back into ‘normal’ human beings and celebrated in style in the big city.

An enjoyable and successful trip - congratulations to all!

Leading for Jagged Globe
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/